Colors of Bac Son - "This is the mountain forest of the war zone"

Bac Son town is nestled in a flat valley, surrounded by majestic mountains, vast rice fields interspersed with stilt houses of the Tay, Nung, H'Mong, and Dao people. This multi-ethnic land with its own distinct identities has created an extremely unique cultural picture.

To reach Bac Son, you have to cross the winding Tam Canh pass, following the long limestone mountains. Bac Son valley gradually appears, looking like a giant carpet woven by human hands, creating a highlight between the vast land and sky.

If you come to Bac Son and just admire the beautiful scenery, it is not enough. You have to experience the life of the people to see how friendly and lovable the people of Bac Son are. This place is not only famous for its historical relics but also famous for the profession of making yin-yang roof tiles, also known as gutter tiles, which has been passed down from generation to generation. After hundreds of years, the profession of making yin-yang roof tiles seemed to have been lost due to the emergence of many new types of tiles and modern roofing sheets, but the tile makers in this land still consider this a "blood and flesh profession" passed down by their ancestors, they are always aware of keeping the tile kilns red hot.

Talking to us, Ms. Duong Thi Nga, a resident of Quynh Son village, Bac Quynh commune happily introduced the tile making process: To make high-quality yin-yang tiles, the most important step is to choose good soil, the clay must be purchased from Binh Gia district, Lang Son province. The clay is chopped to remove stones, watered and left to ferment for 20 days until the soil is soft and sticky. After that, people use their feet to trample the soil so that it is evenly mixed and soft, then put into the mold. Each time the soil is put into the mold, two even, tight tiles can be made. The tiles are continuously fired for about 10 days and 10 nights, and when cooled, they are taken out of the kiln.

To make a roof tile, one must follow an 8-step process, preserved by the Tay people for many generations. From selecting soil, softening, composting, filtering impurities, molding, drying, firing in the kiln to selecting the finished product.

Because yin-yang tiles have good insulation properties, they are cool in the summer and very warm in the winter, so many customers in provinces such as Ha Giang, Cao Bang, Dien Bien, and Ha Nam come to order," Ms. Nga added.

Because the production of Quynh Son tiles is not enough to supply businesses and people for construction and housing, the tile makers here always keep the kilns burning red, creating a unique feature on the ancient mossy roofs, contributing to preserving the cultural identity of the people of Lang.

Bac Son people not only welcome and serve guests with all their hearts, but they also have a deep understanding of culture, expressed through their love and pride in their own village.

There are also more than 400 ancient stilt houses in Quynh Son village with uniform architecture, roofed with yin-yang tiles, leaning against the mountain. The most special feature is that all the houses face the same direction, which is also the direction overlooking Bac Son field, creating a cool space, in harmony with nature.

The stilt houses in Quynh Son village have a uniform architecture, with roofs covered with yin-yang tiles and doors facing southwest, creating a cool space. (Photo: VIET HUNG)

Mr. Duong Cong Chai, an elder living in Quynh Son village, said: "This village has its own characteristics. Firstly, 100% of the residents here are Tay ethnic group, with about 1,800 people. From ancient times until now, all the houses face southwest, which creates a solid position, attracting a lot of fortune for the homeowner, warm in winter and cool in summer. The second special thing is that in Quynh Son village, everyone from old to young shares the same surname. That is Duong. Originally, there are three branches: Duong Cong, Duong Doan and Duong Dinh. According to the custom here, if people have the same surname, they will never marry each other. Because they share the same surname, Quynh Son people are very united."

Realizing the potential for tourism development with unique traditional cultural features, starting in 2010, the people here decided to build a community cultural tourism village together. People encourage each other to be aware of protecting the environment and preserving the natural landscape.

Currently, the village has 10 households providing homestay services for tourists to visit and relax. These models have brought practical results, not only promoting the strengths of local culture, but also contributing to poverty reduction and improving the lives of the people.

Homestay space of Mr. Duong Cong Chich's family, one of the first five households to convert to tourism to welcome guests.

Mr. Duong Cong Chich, one of the first five households to boldly welcome tourists to Quynh Son village, shared: After more than ten years of doing community tourism, the first thing is to increase family income, improve life, and the second is to create jobs for young people in the village.

In order to meet the increasing demand of tourists, the family has recently built four more standard houses to better welcome tourists.

Since the transformation into tourism, Quynh Son has been known on the Lang Son tourism map. Tourists from all over come here to immerse themselves in the cultural space of the Tay people here.

In addition to the majestic natural scenery and the house space preserved through many generations, Bac Son is also considered one of the cradles of the art of Then singing and Tinh lute.

Since being recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, Then singing and Tinh lute singing have been preserved and promoted in the right direction, with the aim of serving tourists, as well as preserving, maintaining and developing traditional cultural values ​​of the locality.

In Bac Son, artisan Duong Huu Ca is one of the inheritors and spreaders of the art of Then singing to the youth. In addition to his ability to make the Tinh lute, he is also a person with skillful fingers and a musical ear that is praised by everyone as a master.

Artist Duong Huu Ca is instructing children in Then singing and Tinh lute.

Mr. Ca said: "According to the Tay people's concept, preserving the then and then words means preserving the language and cultural quintessence of the nation so that each child of the homeland, no matter where they are, will not forget their identity or their roots."

Mr. Ca is always worried that a part of the young generation in the locality is no longer interested in Then singing and Tinh playing, so he has collaborated with young local artists to teach Then singing and Tinh playing right at his home.

"We divide into many classes, with methods suitable for each age group, so that the children can absorb most effectively. We teach them from the very beginning, such as teaching them how to hold the guitar correctly. Next is how to press the notes, then how to breathe, how to sing clearly and roundly. If they make a mistake, we will guide them to correct it right there and practice to remember it," Mr. Ca added.

Thanks to the right development direction according to the community cultural tourism model, Quynh Son village or Bac Son valley is now known and loved by many tourists. Local people have more income, have conditions to express and introduce traditional beauty to tourists from all over. This is also an effective way to promote the local image, as well as preserve and promote traditional cultural values, creating tourism attraction for Bac Son in particular and Lang Son in general.