The distinctive culinary culture of the Cham people.

The Cham community in Binh Thuan and Ninh Thuan provinces has two main religious sects: the Cham who follow Brahmanism and the Cham who follow Bani Islam. In addition, there is a small group that follows Islam, a branch of Bani Islam that was introduced to Ninh Thuan province in the 1960s. In their general cultural life, and particularly their culinary culture, the Cham people of these two sects possess distinct culinary characteristics and etiquette.

These dishes are offered by the Cham people to the gods during the festival.

The culinary characteristics of the Cham people.

According to Cham cultural researcher Inrasara, the ancestors of the Cham people lived along the central coast of Vietnam – a region with abundant sunshine and wind. Geographical and climatic factors significantly influenced Cham cuisine. For example, in cooking, the Cham rarely use animal fat, primarily relying on vegetable oils to increase the fat content. Animals used for sacrifices (offerings to deities) are those with very little body fat, such as chickens, goats, and buffaloes. Living in a region with a harsh climate, the Cham do not favor fried or stir-fried dishes, preferring grilling and boiling. They place particular emphasis on soups to balance body temperature during hot weather. A typical Cham family meal rarely lacks soup, which could be wild vegetable soup or taro soup. Especially noteworthy is the mixed vegetable soup (a soup made with many different vegetables cooked together) mixed with rice flour, a favorite dish for many, including affluent families.

Cham people's steamed fish paste

In cooking, the Cham people pay great attention to spices that enhance the flavor and suit their taste, such as chili, onions, lemongrass, fish sauce, and salt. In Ninh Thuan province, there is a famous Cham village known for its spicy food: Bani Luong Tri (Palei Cang) in Nhon Son commune, Ninh Son district. More than 30 years ago, almost every household had a chili garden and stored dried chili peppers as the main spice in preparing dishes made from freshwater seafood such as fish, eels, and frogs. Besides using many spices, a characteristic dipping sauce is indispensable in Cham cuisine. Cham fish sauce comes in many varieties, such as: Ia muthin (fish sauce), Muthin nguic (fermented fish sauce), Muthin jrum (shrimp paste), Muthin drei (fermented fish paste), Muthin tung ikan ya (tuna fish sauce), Muthin ritaung (anchovy fish sauce), Muthin ka-ok (steamed fish sauce)...

The Cham people are preparing salted fish. Photo by Kieu Maly.

Traditional Cham family etiquette dictates that meals are traditionally served on mats or woven mats arranged east-west. Morning and afternoon meals are usually eaten outdoors, while lunch is eaten on the porch. Food is served on trays, and seating is arranged according to family hierarchy. Women (mothers, sisters) usually sit near the cooking pots, eating and replenishing food for everyone. The meal begins when the oldest person picks up their chopsticks. During meals, no talking or arguing is allowed, and food must not be spilled. In religious ceremonies, the Cham people have different ways of serving food depending on the nature and religion (Brahman or Bani). For funerals in both religions, food is served north-south, while for other events such as weddings or religious ceremonies, it is served east-west. Cham Brahmanists serve food on trays for two or four people. Cham Bani people, however, only serve food on trays for the two elders or dignitaries seated at the top (called the upper tray). The lower trays will have food placed directly on the mat.

A Cham dish of vegetables and dipping sauce. (Photo by Kieu Maly)

Religious dignitaries from both religions participating in the Kajang ceremony must sit cross-legged and chew on a grain of salt when seated at the offering table, performing the ritual of asking for permission through gestures and silent incantations. Cham men, whether eating at the temple or at home, sit cross-legged. Women, on the other hand, sit cross-legged like the dignitaries; this is the mandatory standard posture. In any temple feast, men are invited to eat and drink first, followed by women. Priests have strict dietary restrictions, such as not eating catfish or meat from dead animals. Brahman priests are forbidden from eating beef, while Bani priests abstain from pork, monitor lizard meat, and many other taboos. It can be seen that the culinary culture and etiquette surrounding eating among the Cham people have created a very distinctive "Cham culinary style," contributing to the rich and unique culinary culture of the 54 ethnic groups of Vietnam. Source: https://baodantoc.vn/van-hoa-am-thuc-dac-trung-cua-nguoi-cham-1733211716702.htm