What is special about the 'chicken eye' patterned fabric used to make the outfits of leaders attending ASEAN 42, personally chosen by the President of Indonesia?

At the 42nd ASEAN Summit, leaders wore shirts made from traditional Indonesian fabrics called Batik and Tenun Ikat with mata manuk (chicken eye) motifs. Let's decode these special fabrics.

Vải họa tiết ‘mắt gà’ may trang phục của nhà lãnh đạo dự ASEAN 42 do đích thân Tổng thống Indonesia lựa chọn có gì đặc biệt?

Leaders attending the 42nd ASEAN Summit wore shirts made from a fabric called Tenun Ikat from Indonesia. (Photo: Duong Giang)

Indonesia has four traditional fabrics (commonly known as wastra) that are recognized worldwide. These are Batik - fabric made using the wax-resist dyeing technique, Songket - woven fabric made using the weft technique, Ikat - woven fabric made by tying and dyeing threads before weaving, and Tenun - fabric woven using traditional looms.

At ASEAN 42, leaders wore long-sleeved shirts made from Batik fabric at the reception hosted by the Indonesian President on the evening of May 10 and long-sleeved shirts made from Tenun Ikat fabric at the Closed Session on the morning of May 11.

Batik is a special Indonesian fabric made using canting - a wax pen-like tool and known for its unique decorative motifs in each region. Indonesian Batik was officially recognized by UNESCO as an Intangible Cultural Heritage on October 2, 2009. According to the Indonesian Ministry of Industry, Batik exports reached about 157.8 million USD in 2021.

Tenun Ikat from Flores, East Nusa Tenggara (different from Tenun Endek from Bali) is a traditional fabric of the Manggarai people living in the western part of Flores. This fabric is used for traditional events such as: parties (penti), opening of new fields (randang) and meetings (nempung).

Tenun Ikat fabric became known to the world through the show in Paris Fashion Week 2018. Julie Laiskodat, an Indonesian designer introduced the beauty of Flores fabric to the world. On the occasion of ASEAN 42, designer Julie Laiskodat also took the opportunity to promote Flores Tenun Ikat.

Prime Minister Pham Minh Chinh in traditional Indonesian costume made from Batik fabric. (Photo: Duong Giang)

According to the country’s media, the color and pattern of Tenun Ikat fabric were personally selected by President Joko Widodo. Meanwhile, this fabric was also used to make scarves for the wives of ASEAN leaders, selected by First Lady Iriana Joko Widodo.

The mata manuk (chicken eye) motif has high cultural and religious value as a means of worshiping the Creator and ancestors in traditional ceremonies for the West Manggarai people.

Through the ASEAN Summit, Indonesia hopes to further promote unique local products such as the above fabrics, which tourists can buy as souvenirs (fabric or made into shirts) in Labuan Bajo or other localities in Indonesia.