Formed over many years, amber, a honey-brown material, is one of the oldest materials used in jewelry and one of the few substances considered a semi-precious stone that is not of mineral origin.

Amber is essentially fossilized tree resin that has been buried for millennia through a chemical transformation process. The process causes the amber to become translucent, revealing natural impurities, including air bubbles and trapped ancient creatures, from plants to insects and even small vertebrates.

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Hemmerle earrings crafted from amber and sapphire.

The largest amber deposits today are located in the Dominican Republic, Mexico and Myanmar, but especially on the Amber Coast - an area near Kaliningrad, Russia, excavated since the mid-19th century. There, two mines - Palmnikenskoe and Primorskoe are estimated to contain 80% of the world's total amber.

In China, amber has long been considered a lucky charm, and is used as a prayer bead in Chinese Buddhism.

Meanwhile, the Greeks believed that amber represented the tears of the sun god Apollo, which fell into the sea and washed ashore.

In the Baltic region, amber had great significance, being considered a gift from the gods, while in Lithuania they were valued for their medicinal properties.

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Necklace made of amber, citrine and diamonds.

During the Middle Ages, amber jewelry symbolized the wealth and power of European nobility, used to decorate crowns, scepters and other royal treasures.

Nowadays, amber appears more and more in the process of creating unique high-end jewelry. One of the world-famous jewelers Hemmerle is actively using amber in its products.

Founded in Munich, Germany, the Hemmerle brand is known for its use of unconventional materials. Carving amber into beads and then combining them with sapphire, Hemmerle artisans believe that the vibrant tones of amber can blend perfectly with antique coral, sapphire, wood and other materials.

Bringing ancient natural materials like amber into contemporary jewelry creations is incredibly exciting for them.

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Amber and diamond butterfly brooch.

Renowned jewelry designer Glenn Spiro also pays close attention to amber. In his Materials of the Old World collection, launched at the 2023 Art and Design Fair in London, Spiro cut ancient amber into decorative rounds, and attached citrine and white diamonds to gold necklaces.

For Iryna Karpova, a Ukrainian architect and jeweler, the allure of amber lies in its history. At the GemGeneve 2024 International Jewelry Exhibition, Iryna Karpova showcased her unique jewelry creations. Each piece combines Ukrainian amber with diamonds, ebony and intricate carvings.

“Its organic origins, beauty, charm and storied history make it a unique medium for artistic and scientific exploration,” she says.

(According to SCMP)