'Silk carving in the clouds'

Western cyanotype printing technique on silk creates works that are both nostalgic and luxurious and sophisticated. Photo: HL

The journey from North to South

Artist Pham Tuan Ngoc shared that to complete the collection, he spent time experimenting with different silk materials, from silk, organza to satin, and realized that each material brings a distinct visual effect. According to him, silk - a traditional fabric of Vietnam is both familiar and elegant, so applying manual printing techniques or integrating heritage motifs without affecting the thinness and shine of silk is a challenge that requires the artist's carefulness and solid technique.

On a shimmering ivory silk background, the heritage motifs are depicted by artist Pham Ngoc Tuan using the “Prussian blue” cyanotype technique to create works that are both nostalgic and luxurious and sophisticated. The characteristic cyanotype blue color blends with the softness of silk to create a unique, magical visual effect. Sharing with the audience of the art program, the male artist said that this printing technique can be applied to many fabrics such as cotton, linen, viscose or silk...

However, silk is still the most beautiful because of its transparency and natural iridescent surface, which helps reflect light and highlight cyanotype prints. “Silk has the ability to absorb color in its own way, where each fold or light can create different colors, making the work come alive,” he said.

Originating in 2019, the art project “Soi May Tac Lua” has undergone more than 100 trials, including more than 20 trials of cyanotype printing techniques and more than 20 trials of fabric materials. This is considered a tireless journey from North to South of the group of authors to fully express the unique artistic spirit: the fusion of hard and soft, East and West, tradition and modernity.

Taking Craftsmanship to the Next Level

The process of cyanotype printing on silk requires meticulousness in every step. First, the artist must prepare a light-sensitive solution, brush it evenly over the silk surface and let it dry in the dark. Then, the patterns are arranged on the fabric, before being exposed to sunlight. The light will trigger a chemical reaction that turns the uncovered area dark blue. After washing with water, the patterns will appear in different shades, creating a dreamy, poetic visual effect. From the experimental process, the group of artists concluded that silk floss has a soft, wavy texture, helping the image to spread color naturally, while organza silk creates a transparent effect, making the work more magical under the light.

After more than 20 years of settling down and working in Switzerland, designer Pham Ngoc Anh founded the fashion brand La Pham in Vietnam. She chose sustainable fashion to develop her career. For her, cyanotype is not just an art of printing but also a material for fashion creation.

In the collection “Mong Thien Chuong”, she experimented with printing cyanotype on silk fabric to create outfits with a style that blends classic and modern. She said that the blue color of cyanotype has a magical transformation under the light, when combined with the shape of the ao dai, evening gown or cloak, it has created a very unique beauty, both nostalgic and new. When the model moves, the audience will feel the picture moving along. Besides performance designs, Pham Ngoc Anh aims to apply this technique to the production of everyday clothes, such as printing on silk scarves, shirts, accessories, etc.

Many people believe that this art event is an inspiring combination of Eastern culture and Western printing techniques, skillfully expressed by the artists through Vietnamese heritage motifs on silk. Not to mention, the use of cyanotype printing technique on silk shows the spirit of innovation in creation, thereby bringing Vietnamese handicrafts to a new level.

It is known that cyanotype has a history of more than 180 years in the West, but when printed on Vietnamese silk, it takes on a completely new shade: soft, graceful and bearing a strong Asian mark. According to artist Pham Tuan Ngoc, art always needs innovation and creativity, and he believes that this combination will open up new potential for Vietnamese silk in global art and fashion.

HUYNH LE

Source: https://baodanang.vn/channel/5433/202504/soi-may-tac-lua-4003219/