The gradual disappearance of the narrators of 'One Thousand and One Nights'

Morocco "Our time is up," said Erguibi, a storyteller in Marrakesh's Jemaa el-Fnaa square, after lighting a cigarette.

The historic center of Marrakesh, a UNESCO World Heritage site, was devastated by the September 8 earthquake that killed more than 2,100 people in Morocco. Dozens of buildings collapsed in the walled Medina and an iconic minaret in Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Many worry that Morocco will no longer be as attractive to tourists as it once was, with its heritage destroyed.

But before the earthquake, another cultural heritage, just as famous as the buildings in Marrakesh, was also facing the risk of disappearing. That is hikayat, or the ancient tradition of storytelling passed down through time through storytellers. This tradition is gradually fading away as tourists now spend most of their time taking "virtual life" photos or almost just "riding horses to see the flowers" when exploring the destination.

Mohamed Sghir Erguibi, storyteller in Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Photo: El Pais

In the past, in Jemaa el-Fnaa square, visitors could easily find people telling fairy tales, myths or history. A crowd gathered around, quietly listening with interest. The most commonly told stories were works from the Arabian Nights.

Oral storytelling in Morocco has long been considered a form of entertainment and a way for adults to educate their children. It takes place in an intimate, close, and simple space. Whether in a square or a cafe, listeners gather around the storyteller to grasp every word and gesture.

At Jamaa el-Fna, you can still find many sages performing "magic" through their voices and storytelling to attract crowds. Storytellers often work every night in the square. Stories are told in Arabic and it is customary to tip the storyteller a few dirhams (1 dirham is about 2,400 VND).

Jemaa el-Fnaa before the earthquake. Photo: Planetware

“Two girls grew up in the same neighborhood, got married on the same day. Soon, they had a baby on the same day,” Mohamed Sghir Erguibi, 70, wearing a traditional robe, began his story the day before the earthquake in Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Nearby were musicians, buskers, acrobats, fortune tellers and snake charmers. In the distance were cafes and shops catering to tourists. Erguibi’s words were almost drowned out by the noise in the square.

Now, the square is quieter than ever. The city's most popular tourist destination has become an "open-air dormitory" for hundreds of families who lost their homes after the earthquake.

Marrakesh is the country's most popular tourist destination. According to AFP, about 6.5 million tourists visited Morocco in the first half of the year, up 92% compared to the same period in 2022. Marrakesh alone attracted more than 4.3 million visitors. But Erguibi, a veteran artisan with a government certificate, said "no one sits in the square to listen to me tell stories anymore, they are no longer interested in ancient stories". People like Erguibi mostly make a living by telling short stories to tourists in hotels and at festivals.

Baba C, another ancient storyteller in Marrakesh. Photo: Lonely Planet

"There are only seven traditional storytellers left in public (the older generation). They are all close to 80 years old," said Hanae Jerjou, curator of the Marrakesh Museum of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Before the pandemic, visitors could find more than 10 storytellers sitting in the square.

In recent years, a younger generation in Morocco has been trying to revive the traditional storytelling heritage. Zouhair Jaznaoui, 25, who runs the Fanus (oil lamp) storytelling art group in Marrakesh, is a young storyteller following in his father's footsteps. "I maintain a close relationship with the old storytellers," he explains in his new town, far from the Jemaa el-Fnaa square, which he now sees as more of a business hub than a place to preserve traditional culture. He doesn't believe that oral storytelling and storytellers will "die out". "They are adapting. Tourists will continue to come to Marrakesh. They come for the Jemaa el-Fnaa. But if we stop the oral cultural space in this place, who will come to the square?" he says.

The image many visitors remember of this young storyteller is of him singing a few melodious words, wearing traditional costumes and standing on a high place in the middle of a large space. Then he begins his work. The audience is wide-eyed with delight as Jaznaoui tells a story about a selfish king, an evil queen or a lucky farmer.

However, after the earthquake left the city center deserted, the old storytellers have not returned to the square.

“Our time is over,” Erguibi said, lighting a cigarette. He said the government had promised to build a small stage away from the noise so that storytellers could tell their stories. But young people today no longer tell stories in the square. They go to cafes and hotels because they earn more.

Anh Minh (According to El Pais )

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