Building a heritage map of “Pho Hanoi”

VHO - After being officially listed as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage, “Pho Hanoi” is not only recognized for its historical and cultural value but also opens up opportunities to preserve and sustainably develop the traditional culinary quintessence of the capital. Many cultural and culinary experts commented: “Pho is a special gift of Hanoi, not only Hanoi has it, but because it is only delicious in Hanoi”.

How will the typical dishes with delicate flavors of Hanoi be protected and promoted when they become the heritage and pride of Hanoi?

Protect and promote heritage values

In 2023, during their tour in Vietnam, when they arrived in Hanoi, the group BlackPink had an impressive experience with pho. Member Rosé of the group especially loves pho and described the action of “slurping down the last drop” when enjoying this famous dish.

Pho has become a must-try dish when coming to Hanoi for many tourists. Enjoying Pho brings a different taste experience, helping tourists feel the unique culture of the capital and creating more impressions for tourists when coming to Hanoi. The history of the formation and development of Pho is associated with the ups and downs of the capital, living fully in the memories of many Hanoians. Pho has followed the historical changes in the second half of the 20th century of Vietnam in general and Hanoi in particular, developing very dynamically at a fast pace and expanding its area, becoming a popular dish in Hanoi. Behind each Pho restaurant is a separate historical story, creating pieces for tourists to better understand the cuisine, culture and people of Hanoi.

Director of the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism Do Dinh Hong said that after "Pho Hanoi" was officially included in the list of national intangible cultural heritage, in the coming time, Hanoi will synchronously deploy measures to protect and promote the value of the heritage.

“Hanoi will promote and diversify forms of propaganda, promotion and introduction of heritage, at the same time mobilizing contributions and support from the community in activities to protect and promote heritage values. In particular, we focus on raising awareness and responsibility of people in improving product quality, being aware of organizing and preserving, developing the sustainable pho cooking profession, building the brand of Hanoi Pho…”, Mr. Do Dinh Hong emphasized. A series of solutions will be implemented to promote the value of the heritage “Hanoi Pho”, including the issue of research, collection and documentation. There are still many different opinions on the origin and formation process of Pho today, it is necessary to continue researching and clarifying the origin and formation process of pho cooking in general and in Hanoi in particular. According to the Hanoi Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism, the documentation of heritage will be carried out through interviews, audio and video recordings of the heritage practice process of pho restaurant owners who are long-time pho chefs, in families with many generations of experience in the profession, and have prestige voted by the community. At the same time, seminars and workshops on Pho will be organized, where experts will discuss issues to protect and promote the value of intangible cultural heritage of pho cooking and pho consumption practices in Hanoi.

Regarding the activities of teaching, maintaining and educating heritage, the proposed solution is to support artisans who hold and practice the profession of pho cooking to pass on their experiences, secrets and skills to the next generation; integrate heritage education into subjects... In particular, there will be policies to honor and reward artisans who have contributed to preserving and teaching the profession to the younger generation. It is proposed to consider awarding the title of People's Artist and Meritorious Artist in the field of intangible cultural heritage to subjects who hold the knowledge and skills of cooking pho and making pho noodles. An important solution to attract public attention is to build a map of "Pho Hanoi", from which to give specific suggestions and instructions on delicious pho shops. At the same time, research and plan cultural spaces to practice heritage, contributing to the implementation of the capital's cultural industry development strategy, the field of culinary culture.

Journey to bring heritage to the world

According to Associate Professor Dr. Bui Hoai Son, Standing Member of the National Assembly's Committee on Culture and Education, the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism's inclusion of the folk knowledge of pho, the quintessential dish of Hanoi cuisine, in the list of national intangible cultural heritage has profound significance, not only for the capital but also for the whole country. This is not only a recognition of the cultural and historical values of a dish, but also an affirmation of the importance of preserving and promoting national heritage in the context of globalization.

The process of making and enjoying Pho contains the quintessence of the capital, the length of culture, the ingenuity and sophistication of Hanoi people. In the early stages of its formation, Pho was a daily rustic dish, from a snack and now Pho appears on every street and alley in Hanoi to luxury restaurants and hotels. International tourists who come to Hanoi and love Hanoi say that Pho has long become a must-try dish when coming to the capital. Enjoying Pho brings a different taste experience, helping visitors feel the unique culture of the capital, enhancing the impression for visitors when coming to Hanoi. According to Mr. Bui Hoai Son, the folk knowledge of "Pho Hanoi" being recognized as an intangible cultural heritage also opens up strong development opportunities for the tourism and economy of the capital. More importantly, registering “Pho Hanoi” is also about preserving a part of the soul and identity of the nation, ensuring that traditional values are passed on to future generations. “Registering the folk knowledge of “Pho Hanoi” into the list of national intangible cultural heritage will create profound and positive impacts on the preservation and development of traditional culinary culture in the future…”, Mr. Bui Hoai Son emphasized.

This intangible heritage recognition milestone also creates a strong motivation for chefs, culinary artists and businesses to continuously improve quality and preserve traditional flavors. When Pho is recognized as a cultural heritage, it carries a great responsibility, which is to maintain standards and respect original values, ensuring that Pho will not be transformed or commercialized but always retain the soul of Vietnamese cuisine. In particular, the recognition of "Pho Hanoi" in the list of national intangible cultural heritage also contributes significantly to promoting Vietnamese culture to the world. Pho is not only a dish, but also a cultural ambassador, carrying the story of Vietnamese people, history and culture. This recognition will increase the interest of international tourists in Vietnamese cuisine, thereby creating deeper cultural connections and contributing to the preservation of traditional values in the context of global integration.

During the Hanoi Food Culture Festival 2024, which will take place from November 29 to December 1, Director of the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism Do Dinh Hong said that many activities will be carried out to promote the national intangible cultural heritage "Pho Hanoi". "The festival has the theme "Hanoi connects five continents", including the highlight of the heritage "Pho Hanoi" with many messages to widely promote and promote the value of the heritage not only domestically but also internationally, including the construction of a dossier to submit "Pho Hanoi" to UESCO for inclusion in the list of intangible cultural heritage of humanity...", Mr. Do Dinh Hong said. At the opening ceremony on the evening of November 29, 2024 at Thong Nhat Park (Hanoi), the Hanoi People's Committee will officially organize the announcement of the Decision to list "Pho Hanoi" as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage.

According to statistics, by 2023, Hanoi has nearly 700 pho shops, mainly concentrated in the districts of Ba Dinh, Hoan Kiem, Cau Giay, Dong Da, Hai Ba Trung, Thanh Xuan, and Long Bien. Of which, traditional pho brands are mainly concentrated in Hoan Kiem, Ba Dinh, and Hai Ba Trung districts.

Source: https://baovanhoa.vn/van-hoa/xay-dung-ban-do-di-san-pho-ha-noi-113366.html