Pho satay Cho Lon tells a bold cultural story

Báo Tuổi TrẻBáo Tuổi Trẻ07/01/2025

The Michelin Guide just featured Oryz Saigon's satay pho, where Vietnamese pho and Chaozhou satay noodles come together in a daring way.


Phở sa tế của Chợ Lớn kể câu chuyện giao thoa văn hóa táo bạo - Ảnh 1.

Chef Chris Fong (second from left) - Photo: FBNV

Through the story of Pho Sa Te by chef Chris Fong (Oryz Saigon - a restaurant on Michelin's Michelin Selected 2024 list), Michelin Guide wants to remind the story of migration, history and cultural exchange.

Untold stories

Born in Singapore to an immigrant family, Chris Fong grew up in a melting pot of different cultures: Hong Kong, Malaysia and Singapore.

After completing Singapore's mandatory military service, Fong worked in design but soon discovered his passion for food, enrolling in culinary school and learning the craft at André Restaurant (Singapore).

"French cooking techniques are all about turning simple ingredients into something incredibly refined," he says.

Fong spent two years in France learning the craft, and in the process, Asian flavors and culinary traditions gradually emerged in him.

In 2017, he came to Vietnam and his heart stayed here.

Sharing with Michelin Guide, Fong said he was "fascinated by Vietnam's vibrant culture and untold stories".

In September 2023, Fong opened Oryz, a fine-dining restaurant that combines traditional culinary culture with modern cooking techniques. Just a few months after its launch, Oryz was listed on the Michelin Guide's recommendation list.

Phở sa tế của Chợ Lớn kể câu chuyện giao thoa văn hóa táo bạo - Ảnh 2.

Cho Lon satay pho

Satay Pho with rich Southern flavor

Among Oryz Saigon's rotating menu, one standout dish is the satay pho, where Vietnamese pho is combined with Chaozhou satay rice noodles.

While researching the cuisine of Cho Lon, Fong discovered a noodle shop in Cho Lon that sold a dish called pho satay, which had been around for many years, largely unnoticed by locals. Fong then kept coming back to eat and talk to the owner about how to prepare this pho satay.

“The hardest part was perfecting the satay sauce,” he says, “It took me two weeks to develop this sauce.”

"It's a delicate blend of peanuts, garlic and spices, mixed into a thick paste. The consistency has to be just right so it doesn't dilute too much when the broth is added," the chef reveals.

According to Fong, it is this sauce that is the soul of pho satay. "The ratio of peanuts to spices has to be right," he explains, because if the peanuts overpower the spices, the dish will taste bland.

Oryz Saigon representative commented that Chaozhou satay is not spicy, has more peanuts and is milder in taste. However, the satay pho that he "encountered" in Cho Lon area of ​​Ho Chi Minh City has been modified to suit Vietnamese taste.

“It combines bold spices and Southern herbs, adding a spicy flavor and subtle depth to the dish,” says Chris Fong.

Phở sa tế của Chợ Lớn kể câu chuyện giao thoa văn hóa táo bạo - Ảnh 3.
Phở sa tế của Chợ Lớn kể câu chuyện giao thoa văn hóa táo bạo - Ảnh 4.
Phở sa tế của Chợ Lớn kể câu chuyện giao thoa văn hóa táo bạo - Ảnh 5.

Inspired by Cho Lon, the satay pho at Oryz Saigon remains true to its roots. Beef cooked in satay broth (spicy peanut sauce), served with sliced ​​cucumber, basil and pickled garlic - Photo: FBNH

Fong's Secret

At Oryz Saigon, satay pho is served in a hollowed-out onion. The sweetness from the onion adds a subtle flavor to the satay sauce and broth, making it an essential component of the dish.

According to the Michelin Guide, this presentation also reinforces Fong's vision of using ingredients as a vehicle for cultural storytelling, connecting past and present to enhance the dining experience.

Phở sa tế của Chợ Lớn kể câu chuyện giao thoa văn hóa táo bạo - Ảnh 6.

Upgraded satay pho at Oryz Saigon - Photo: FBNH

According to the Singaporean chef, in traditional Chinese cooking, specifically Cantonese, ingredients like radish or sugar cane are used to sweeten the broth, bringing a subtle sweetness. Meanwhile, in Vietnamese pho, onions bring a distinct sweetness and depth.

“By encasing pho satay in onions, I wanted to highlight this cultural shift, showing how this dish has evolved through migration and assimilation,” Fong said.

He added that when Chinese people migrated to Southeast Asian countries, they brought their culinary traditions with them, evolving and blending them with local ingredients and techniques to create entirely new experiences.



Source: https://tuoitre.vn/pho-sa-te-cho-lon-ke-cau-chuyen-van-hoa-tao-bao-20250107184858639.htm

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