(NLDO) - Similar but not to be confused with the famous braised fish dish of Vu Dai village, my aunt's braised carp with galangal dish conquered all those who had the chance to enjoy it.
Every year during Lunar New Year, I "fly" from Ho Chi Minh City to visit my maternal hometown in Gia Phong commune, Gia Vien district (Ninh Binh) and my aunt always treats me to "addictive" dishes, but only her cooking suits my taste.
Dishes made from carp are available everywhere. I have "tasted" all the dishes with the main ingredient being the "dragon gate" fish. However, it is true as the old saying goes: "A delicious dish is remembered for a long time". I have traveled all over the country, but the carp braised with galangal, which bears the "brand" of my aunt, is truly the best thing in the world.
Every December of the lunar calendar, my aunt told her acquaintances in the fishing village in the same commune to save the biggest pair of carps caught from the Hoang Long River. Everyone in the North knows the saying: "Turtle, chicken, carp". The third dish became even more perfect thanks to my aunt's culinary skills.
River carp that can still swim are not picky, because all of them are firm and energetic. My uncle only needs to let the fish continue to struggle for a few hours in the lake, the waste in the body will be "released" completely. Once the fish is clean from the inside out, the remaining steps and operations belong to my aunt.
Galangal, fresh turmeric, fresh chili, green pepper, my aunt all grows them herself, literally homegrown. Just by hearing the list of spices that are definitely present in the dish, you can imagine the characteristic, extremely attractive aroma that anyone who smells it will want to taste right away.
I booked the flight very early and my aunt remembered exactly the date of my return home. Now that I was on the plane, it was also the time when her small kitchen began to "start" the braised carp with galangal dish. Being thoughtful, my aunt prepared the fish and marinated the spices for quite a while to let them soak in. The fish slices were almost all the same thickness. Because the "appearance" of the fish was very large, my aunt "designed" it according to the model of a high-rise building. The head of the fish was split in half and made into a "foundation" (located at the bottom), followed by the tail which acted as the floor. After that, the fish slices were "built" in order, large at the bottom, small at the top. Just opening the lid of the fish pot was enough to understand the talent of the architect, who came from a true farmer.
On the glowing charcoal stove, when the fish pot begins to "shake" (boil), the aunt "reduces" the amount of charcoal according to the "roadmap". Any charcoal that is about to die out will have a "successor" team. The boiling is thus maintained continuously at a low level, ensuring that the water does not dry out and the fish meat will gradually change its state, going from cooked to soft, tender and completely absorbing the essence of the spices. The aunt explains: "Even though there are enough electric stoves and gas stoves, for this braised fish dish, using charcoal in the traditional way is really "quality"".
After two hours on the charcoal stove, my aunt's culinary masterpiece was completed, and I arrived home in time for dinner. In the bitter cold of the last days of the year in the North, my aunt's braised carp with galangal steamed fragrantly. The delicious, fatty taste of the fish mixed with the spicy taste of "homegrown herbs", a glass of white wine made by my uncle warmed the heart of someone who had been away from home all year round like me.
The dish, though simple, is praised by even the most fastidious people. Therefore, it is not surprising that every time my uncle and aunt's guests stay to dine with the family, they all love this famous dish, which is familiar in the "treasure" of Vietnamese cuisine, but only reaches the level of "super product" when made by my aunt's hands. It is truly a "rice-consuming" dish because even though they cook more rice than usual, each meal is still "a bit lacking".
Also out of concern for her children and grandchildren, my aunt also tried to buy some river crabs to cook with Malabar spinach and jute leaves to eat with crispy eggplant. Buying crabs in the wild during the days before Tet is never an easy task. However, the affection for her relatives helped her turn the impossible into possible, making the dishes she cooked even more flavorful.
The wall calendar and block calendar have been replaced with the new 2023 version. Time is gradually passing towards Lunar New Year. I am about to visit my maternal hometown, reunite with my relatives after 12 months of hard work. Besides the joy of reunion, I also get to satisfy my cravings, enjoy my favorite, unique dish cooked by my respected 63-year-old aunt Dinh Thi Tinh.
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