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Finding the taste of Northern-origin crab vermicelli soup, hidden in an alley for over 40 years in Saigon

Báo Tuổi TrẻBáo Tuổi Trẻ19/11/2024

There is a crab vermicelli soup restaurant that has been hidden in an alley for over 40 years in Saigon. People who come to eat praise it for its authentic Northern flavor, living up to its reputation.


Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 1.

Thanh Hai crab vermicelli soup, "hidden in the alley" for more than 40 years in Saigon - Photo: Dang Khuong

Turn many corners in Ky Dong alley (HCMC) to find a crab vermicelli soup restaurant. According to word of mouth, the restaurant has been around for over 40 years. The special thing is the Northern flavor of the rustic dish of vermicelli soup has been preserved for all these years in the heart of Saigon.

Thanh Hai crab vermicelli soup restaurant was established in 1982. The restaurant is located in a quiet residential area with discolored buildings. The owner is Mrs. Pham Thi Hai, this year she is 72 years old.

Thanh Hai crab vermicelli soup is famous for its flavor.

Thanh Hai crab vermicelli soup is rustic and popular for 40 years.

As soon as it is served, the bowl of noodles "seduces" the diners with a rich aroma. If you pay attention, you will realize that it is the smell of crab and snail soup that has been cooked to "release all its essence".

Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 2.

A bowl of vermicelli with snails covered with crab soup and fresh crispy snails - Photo: HO LAM

The broth is opaque brown. Ms. Hai shared: "I cook the broth from crab paste, star fruit, wine lees... for a long time, so it will be fragrant and have that color."

When eating, you can feel the richness and refreshing aftertaste of the broth. After finishing a spoonful, diners immediately want to eat another spoonful, it's hard to "rest their mouths".

Snails and crab soup almost covered the bowl of noodles, very fresh, especially the snails were crunchy.

Mrs. Hai shared: "I cook the same food for my guests. Later, I passed on the skill to my daughter and daughter-in-law."

In a culinary group on Facebook, an account shared: "I heard Thanh Hai crab vermicelli soup has a Northern flavor. After eating it, I realized it's true to its reputation."

Thanh Hai Crab and Snail Vermicelli Soup - Video: HO LAM

Crab vermicelli soup with snails and crab has changed location, customers can't find it

Mrs. Hai said that when she was young, life in Thai Binh was difficult, so she was used to going to the fields every day to catch crabs and snails. From the "results" she got, her family often cooked crab vermicelli soup for the whole family to eat, and then she learned to follow suit.

In 1980, Mrs. Hai followed her husband to the South. Since then, the typical Thai Binh crab vermicelli soup has only remained in her childhood memories.

Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 3.

Mrs. Hai has always kept the family's crab vermicelli soup for more than 40 years - Photo: DANG KHUONG

Living far from home, Mrs. Hai helps her husband raise their children by selling lottery tickets and papaya.

She said: "Many times I noticed that Southern people only sell vermicelli soup with tofu, pig's blood and crab soup. So I decided to bring Northern-style vermicelli soup here. Those who want to eat Northern food come to me, those who want to eat Southern food come to the market."

Her small family pushes a cart with the "nose-filling" smell of snail noodles along Ky Dong street. Some people drive motorbikes, others ride bicycles, cyclos... to the sidewalk to sit and eat.

Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 4.
Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 5.
Tìm vị bún ốc riêu cua gốc Bắc, núp hẻm hơn 40 năm tại Sài Gòn - Ảnh 6.

Ingredients make the crab vermicelli soup more "attractive" - ​​Photo: HO LAM

Later, she was no longer allowed to sell on the sidewalk, so she had to bring the snail noodle cart to her current small alley, leaving behind many memories.

"If regular customers don't see me anymore, they just ask this person or that person. It's a pity, but customers look for me, how can I look for customers?" - Ms. Hai said.

Morning sells vermicelli with snails, evening sells lottery tickets

When asked if Mrs. Hai had any unforgettable memories associated with the snail noodle cart, she calmly told about the difficult time making a living on the street and the special customers.

Ms. Hai humorously confided: "Many times when I push the noodle cart out, it rains, people carry pots of noodles, tables, chairs, and tarpaulins and run inside. But then I take it out to sell. By 7-8 pm, it's all sold out."

Or there were also unexpectedly kind guests, making her choke up every time she remembered.

"Every noon I often meet a person cycling to eat bun rieu thieu.

He ate for two months and told me: "I'm in college and have no money. Just sell me some on credit and I'll pay you back after I graduate." I told him to keep eating.

After two months, he disappeared. I thought I had been scammed. But later, he came back from abroad and paid me back. He also gave me more money," Ms. Hai emotionally recounted.

Or another time, Ms. Hai agreed to sell a normal bowl of noodles to a student who came to eat, when this person ordered noodles with only vegetables and water at half price.

Ms. Hai shared: "I just thought I was helping the kids a little because they are still in school. Selling like that, but at night I have another source of income, which is... selling lottery tickets at Tao Dan Park."



Source: https://tuoitre.vn/tim-vi-bun-oc-rieu-cua-goc-bac-nup-hem-hon-40-nam-tai-sai-gon-20241119123516739.htm

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