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The New York Times and the journey to find the best coffee shop in Saigon

Báo Tuổi TrẻBáo Tuổi Trẻ17/03/2024


Cà phê Cheo Leo, một trong những quán cà phê lâu đời nhất ở Sài Gòn, phục vụ cà phê từ thập niên 1930 - Ảnh: Justin Mott

Cheo Leo Coffee, one of the oldest coffee shops in Saigon, has been serving coffee since the 1930s - Photo: Justin Mott

In the article "Finding the taste of delicious coffee in Ho Chi Minh City", journalist Seth Sherwood and photojournalist Justin Mott delved into the places that preserve Saigon's coffee culture from traditional to modern.

At the same time, do not forget to share with international readers about the most prominent coffee places in this city of tens of millions of people.

Coffee from farm to shop

Apart from Brazil, no country produces more coffee than Vietnam.

Beginning during the French colonial years of the 19th century, Vietnam's coffee industry is now worth $3 billion and accounts for nearly 15% of the global market, making Vietnam the coffee giant of Southeast Asia.

Quá trình pha chế cà phê hiện đại tại The Workshop, một quán cà phê tại TP.HCM - Ảnh: Justin Mott

Modern coffee making process at The Workshop, a coffee shop in Ho Chi Minh City - Photo: Justin Mott

The quality of Vietnamese coffee has begun to catch up with the huge output.

Thanks to the popularity of direct-from-farm-to-store delivery, the coffee retail business is booming as more and more on-site roasters and specialty coffee shops pop up in the heart of Saigon.

From discreet bohemian hangouts like RedDoor to stylish chains like La Viet - which has its own coffee farm near Da Lat.

It can be said that this city has enough types of coffee to please the most sophisticated connoisseur.

Cheo Leo Coffee

With the characteristic bitterness and high caffeine content of most Robusta beans, it is no surprise that the Vietnamese have traditionally softened the heaviness of their coffee with a splash of condensed milk, creating a drink similar to a milkshake.

Through the alleys in District 3, you will reach the best place to enjoy this "national product", which is one of the oldest coffee shops in the city.

Không chỉ thu hút du khách gần xa, cà phê Cheo Leo còn có những khách quen uống tại đây từ thời cha, mẹ của chủ quán hiện giờ - Ảnh: Justin Mott

Not only attracting tourists from near and far, Cheo Leo coffee also has regular customers who have been drinking here since the time of the current owner's parents - Photo: Justin Mott

This is where Mrs. Suong and her two sisters "perform the ritual" that their family has been performing nonstop for nearly 100 years (the author compares roasting, grinding and brewing coffee to an ancient ritual of Mrs. Suong's family - translator ).

As lyrical Vietnamese music echoes on the walls, tiled roofs and ceilings that have been marked by time, the women in the shop still work diligently under a single light bulb in the small kitchen.

They pour a mixture of Robusta, Arabica, and Culi coffee, ground through a cloth sieve, into aluminum pots heated with charcoal.

After a second filtration through water stored in large earthenware pots to allow impurities to sink to the bottom, the coffee is poured into glasses with condensed milk for customers to enjoy.

The author also did not forget to mention that if the coffee here is not rich enough for European and American tastes, you can ask for a little French butter to go with your coffee.

Lacaph Coffee

A rather classy cafe located in District 1, right near Ben Nghe, by the small urban canal that winds through the city.

Bên trong quán cà phê Lacaph - Ảnh: Justin Mott

Inside Lacaph Cafe - Photo: Justin Mott

Quá trình làm cà phê tại Lacaph - Ảnh: Justin Mott

Coffee making process at Lacaph - Photo: Justin Mott

Decorated with dark wood panels and lighting systems, Lacaph serves from unique drinks such as lemonade mixed with coffee flower honey to traditional dishes such as filter coffee, homemade coconut coffee.

The coconut coffee here is a blend of cold brew coffee, coconut milk, coconut syrup and coconut cream.

There are many lower sugar options including espresso, lattes and cascaras.

Cascaras is a tea-like beverage made from coffee tree bark and coffee cherry skins.

The main attraction of the shop is the space displaying coffee-related items.

Featuring posters, maps, machinery and even a vintage motorbike – the preferred mode of transport for Vietnamese coffee growers – the gallery provides visitors with fascinating insights into the country’s coffee history, regions, beans, cultivation methods and production techniques.

Coffee 96B

96B Coffee is located in Tan Dinh area, famous for the pink 19th century Tan Dinh Church and crowded covered market.

Không gian bên trong quán 96B - Ảnh: Justin Mott

Interior space of 96B restaurant - Photo: Justin Mott

With its bright color scheme and post-industrial architecture, this small cafe aims to educate its customers about coffee and the brewing industry by hosting a variety of workshops on a variety of topics, from roasting to latte art.

Coffee enthusiasts can take the “sensory training” sequence, two courses that teach the art of tasting coffee like a pro, from understanding acidity to assessing sweetness.

Những mẫu thử cà phê được đựng trong ống chưng cất - Ảnh: Justin Mott

Coffee samples are contained in distillation tubes - Photo: Justin Mott

But 96B’s mission isn’t just academic. It serves five hand-brewed Vietnamese coffees with tasting notes and individual pots (the coffee here is treated like fine wine) along with experimental drinks like the Solar Cold Brew, a blend of cold coffee, ginger syrup, ginger jam, lemon cordial, and rosemary.

Additionally, customers can purchase “The Vietnam Coffee Atlas,” the store’s collection of Vietnamese coffee beans that showcases eight varieties of coffee beans from different regions and coffee styles.

The Workshop Coffee

There is perhaps no better place to test your taste buds than an industrial-style cafe with interiors resembling luxury New York apartments right next to bustling Dong Khoi Street.

Bên trong quán The Workshop - Ảnh: Justin Mott

Inside The Workshop - Photo: Justin Mott

Here, customers will be offered a wide range of local and international coffee beans, as well as a myriad of preparation methods, from simple espresso to more complex pour-over methods and immersion devices.

For a modern, sophisticated cup of coffee, opt for a siphon, a complex device of glass bulbs, tubes, and knobs (it’s like watching an alchemy process). The slow drip technology will test your patience and reward your taste buds.

There is also salt coffee, a unique style of milk coffee originating from the ancient capital of Hue, with a layer of salted cream that is popular in Vietnam.

Little Hanoi Egg Coffee

The name of this local coffee chain says everything you need to know about its specialty: A sweet, frothy cup of egg coffee, a Hanoi classic made with whipped egg yolks, condensed milk, sugar, and vanilla.

Cà phê trứng là món đặc sản độc đáo của Việt Nam - Ảnh: Justin Mott

Egg coffee is a unique specialty of Vietnam - Photo: Justin Mott

The space at the main location (119/5 Yersin) has a vintage style: bamboo armchairs, floral cushions, plaid blankets, wooden-paneled TVs, cassette players and dusty bookshelves.

But crowds of all ages enjoy the time-traveling atmosphere.

Bel Coffee

Soft indie rock sounds and the tapping of fingers on computer keyboards will welcome diners into this minimalist gallery-like space.

Không gian theo phong cách tối giản của Bel - Ảnh: Justin Mott

Bel's minimalist space - Photo: Justin Mott

This is also where "trendy" young people and global nomads (foreign tourists experiencing tourism in Vietnam) sit and sip attractive drinks.

Decorated with colorful abstract paintings on the walls, the cafe serves espresso drinks (including a cup of coffee made with pandan syrup), mixed fruit juices and bags of “house-roasted” coffee beans to go.

Filter coffee

If you’ve read this far, you’re probably really dependent on caffeine. If so, you’re not alone, and there’s a 24/7 place in Ho Chi Minh City that will provide you with delicious coffee all day long.

Cửa hiệu trông nho nhỏ của gia đình bà Tuyết phục vụ hơn 500 ly cà phê mỗi ngày - Ảnh: Justin Mott

Ms. Tuyet's family's small shop serves more than 500 cups of coffee every day - Photo: Justin Mott

Known as Ca Phe Vei, this small, garage-like space is tucked away at 330/2 Phan Dinh Phung, a narrow alley in Phu Nhuan District, south of the airport.

During the day, employees hurriedly unloaded crates of condensed milk while Ms. Tuyet and Mr. Con passed around pouring ground Robusta beans into sieves.

Finally, over a pot of hot water placed on a charcoal stove made from a recycled B-52 bomb.

According to Ms. Tuyet, the fire for roasting coffee and boiling water has never gone out since the oven was first lit in the 1960s. The shop itself dates back to the 1950s.

At night, they hand over the shop to the staff and rest in their small attic above the shop. But the stream of people on foot and motorbikes waiting for take-away coffee seems to never stop, the shop is said to sell more than 500 cups of coffee every day.



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