Located on the northern bank of the Ma River, with its back against Truong Sinh Mountain and a vast rice field in front, Luong Ngoc Village (Ngoc Village) in Cam Luong Commune (Cam Thuy) is as beautiful as a landscape painting. There is also the Cam Luong scenic relic site with a complex of fish streams, caves, temples, and traditional cultural spaces... all creating a unique attraction for the ancient Muong land.
Tourists enjoy visiting and exploring Ngoc stream with its famous "divine fish".
About 80km from the center of Thanh Hoa city, Luong Ngoc village is located in the middle of a large valley. The Truong Sinh mountain range stretches through Ngoc village, creating a system of pristine caves and a peaceful and beautiful natural landscape.
In particular, from inside Truong Sinh rock mountain, there is a cool stream that flows as if it never dries up, people often call it Ngoc stream (Ngoc stream) - where there is a famous "divine fish school". Under the cool, clear water all year round, the school of fish swims happily before the eyes of tourists.
Following the cool stream, following the instructions of the locals, we stopped by the sacred temple worshiping the Dragon King Water Palace (Snake God) on the banks of the Ngoc stream to offer incense to the god. Then from here, continuing to the source of the stream, we "encountered" the Truong Sinh mountain range. Following the stone steps into the mountain is a system of wild caves (Cay Dang cave) with many strangely shaped stalactites, sparkling with beautiful colors. Entering the cave, visitors' footsteps seem to be lost in a fairyland, absorbed in exploring. Cay Dang cave is open at both ends, the people of Ngoc village often say: "Entering the father's door, exiting the mother's door".
When the journey to explore the village, Ngoc stream, and Truong Sinh mountain seems to be tiring, visitors can sit by the stream and enjoy some bamboo rice tubes made by the Muong people here. Sticky rice grilled in bamboo tubes is fragrant and not mushy, dipping it with a little sesame salt is also very interesting. According to the people of Ngoc village, bamboo rice was mainly made and used during the village's festivals and New Year's. Since the Cam Luong scenic relic site has become an attractive tourist destination, bamboo rice has also become a gift for visitors when visiting the ancient Muong. From rice grains harvested in the village fields, "packed" in small bamboo tubes and grilled over a fire in the local way, bamboo rice has become a rustic gift - a cuisine that attracts visitors to Ngoc village.
On the journey to explore Ngoc village, we had the opportunity to talk with Mr. Bui Hung Manh - a prestigious person in the Muong community in Ngoc village. From here, we learned many interesting things about the ancient Muong land of Luong Ngoc.
According to Mr. Bui Hung Manh, for the Muong people in Luong Ngoc, Ngoc stream is a sacred stream, associated with the formation of the Muong village here. From ancient times, generations of Muong people have told the legend: A long time ago, when the mountains and forests were still wild, Ngoc village had not yet been inhabited by humans, there was a young Muong man (Hoa Binh) who went into the forest to hunt animals, a deer was hit by his arrow but did not die, the deer used its strength to cross the mountains and forest trees to escape. The hunter did not give up, he spent day and night determined to follow the deer's blood trail. Until one day, the little deer "led" the hunter to a cool stream. Believing that this was a good place to settle down, the hunter hurried back to his hometown, brought his wife and relatives to the cool stream at the foot of Truong Sinh mountain to establish a village and build a life. Ngoc village has existed since then.
The life of the Muong couple by the Ngoc stream passed peacefully like that. Until one day, when he went to the stream, the husband caught a small egg. He brought it home and couldn't bear to eat it, so he let the chicken incubate it. One day, the egg hatched into a small snake with a red crest on its head. Thinking it was strange, the husband decided to take the small snake to the Ngoc stream to release it. But when he returned home, he saw the small snake there again. Seeing this, the couple decided to raise the small snake. As the years passed, the small snake became a giant snake, loved by the people in the Muong village.
Suddenly one day, the giant snake disappeared. Also during those days, the sky and earth were in turmoil, there were terrible thunderstorms and lightning, from Truong Sinh mountain came loud noises, far away the Ma river water kept rising causing rocks to slide, flood water to wash away... When the sky cleared up again, going to the bank of Ngoc stream, the villagers were surprised to see the body of a giant snake there, next to it was the body of a sea monster. After burying the snake's body on the bank of Ngoc stream, that night the villagers dreamed of a god "telling" them: The Snake was sent by the god to protect the villagers. In the past days, the Snake had fought the sea monster to bring peace to life.
Mourning and feeling grateful to the Snake, the people of Ngoc village built a temple to worship the god (Snake Temple or Ngoc Temple) right on the stream bank, worshiping him all year round. The custom of worshipping the Snake God has become a long-standing cultural belief of the Muong people in Luong Ngoc. Over time, feudal dynasties have repeatedly conferred the title of "Supreme God" and "Water Palace Dragon King".
“Also from Ngoc stream appeared a school of fish, up to thousands of them, with red tails and fins, swimming in schools towards the majestic Ngoc temple, reflecting on the clear water. As night fell, the school of fish from Ngoc stream went back into Truong Sinh mountain, leaving only turtles and petrified dragons prostrating themselves before the majestic temple... The strange school of fish had red tails and fins, eyes like sparkling gold rings... The school of fish was friendly and close to the lives of the people of Ngoc village. They never caught and ate fish... Local people said that the school of fish were the soldiers of the Snake who had transformed into divine fish to attend the Ngoc temple every day - worshiping the Snake god” (according to Hoang Minh Tuong, author of the book About the tourist area of Thanh land).
“Ngoc Stream is a sacred stream, closely associated with the material and spiritual life and cultural beliefs of the people of Ngoc village, and is treasured by the people as a treasure given by heaven. No one is allowed to harm the sacred stream and the gods, that is truly taboo,” Mr. Bui Hung Manh affirmed.
Every year, from the 7th to the 9th of January, local people return to Ngoc stream to organize the Khai Ha festival - praying for water, favorable weather, and good crops. During the festival, people will carry the Snake God's palanquin from Ngoc temple to the large stilt house (the village's stilt house) to organize. On the day of the festival, from the Ngoc stream, the village elders will beat gongs that echo throughout the Muong village, respectfully informing the gods, awakening all creatures, and calling on the villagers to come and enjoy the festival. In the sacred space, the villagers believe that the Snake God - the "protector" of Ngoc village will understand their wishes and help make their lives more prosperous every day. After the respectful ceremony is the exciting festival with unique folk games and performances of the Muong people...
In the spring days full of vitality, returning to Luong Ngoc, returning to the beautiful village nestled at the foot of Truong Sinh mountain, looming stilt houses, walking along the cool Ngoc stream, watching the "divine fish" swimming happily,... we suddenly see how peaceful and beautiful this life is.
Article and photos: Khanh Loc
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