Vietnamese fish sauce has been around for over 2,000 years, right?

Báo Tuổi TrẻBáo Tuổi Trẻ18/04/2024


Nước mắm là loại gia vị đóng vai trò chủ chốt trong ẩm thực Việt Nam - Ảnh: Michelin Guide 

Fish sauce is a key condiment in Vietnamese cuisine - Photo: Michelin Guide

According to the Michelin Guide, fish sauce is an indispensable condiment in Asian cuisine, especially in Southeast Asia.

Regional diversity and export products have highlighted the reputation of Vietnamese fish sauce in the world.

"But did you know that Vietnamese fish sauce has a history of more than 2,000 years, originating from the Dong Son culture and possibly earlier?", the site wrote.

Ảnh chụp lại từ sách Văn minh vật chất của người Việt của nhà nghiên cứu Phan Cẩm Thượng - Ảnh: ĐẬU DUNG

Photo taken from the book Material Civilization of Vietnamese People by researcher Phan Cam Thuong - Photo: DAU DUNG

When did Vietnamese fish sauce come about?

Up to now, there is still no accurate document stating the exact origin of fish sauce in our country.

Only know, in the documents left by history books, the two words fish sauce are mentioned earliest (up to the present time) in Complete Annals of Dai Viet (compiled by Ngo Sy Lien).

Specifically, in Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu , in the Le Dynasty's chronicle (Dai Hanh Emperor), when talking about the year Dinh Dau, the 4th year (997), there is a passage: "Previously, the Song envoys often used the excuse of paying tribute with fish sauce to take the opportunity to demand contributions"...

So according to historical records, before 997, our country had fish sauce to pay tribute. As for when, how, and who is the founder of fish sauce in Vietnam, it is still a mystery.

There is also an opinion that Mr. Bat Xi (Tran Gia Hoa) in Phan Thiet is the founder of the fish sauce industry in our country. This information is shared by some forums as well as fish sauce shops. However, according to food safety expert Vu The Thanh, "saying that is an exaggeration".

In the book Story of Fish Sauce (Women's Publishing House, 2020), Mr. Vu The Thanh cited some previous historical documents showing the existence of fish sauce in our country; meanwhile, "Mr. Bat Xi started the fish sauce business in Phan Thiet in the early 20th century".

Expert Vu The Thanh wrote "fish sauce - understood in the sense that the method of making and the taste are similar to today's fish sauce, has existed since the Nguyen Lord period at the latest".

But where does today's fish sauce originate? That remains a big question.

Going back 2,000 years, maybe even more, as the Michelin Guide mentioned above, is it because they identify the history of Vietnamese fish sauce and Western fish sauce as one?

Because, "fish sauce" - a liquid obtained from fermenting salt and fish - has existed since ancient Greece, with the name "garum", about 2,500 years ago.

Làm mắm ở Biên hòa, trích từ sách ảnh Indochine profonde của J.P. Dannaud, cao ủy phủ Đông Dương, xuất bản năm 1954

Making fish sauce in Bien Hoa, excerpt from the photo book Indochine profonde by JP Dannaud, High Commissioner of Indochina, published in 1954

Choosing good fish sauce is "as easy as pie"

Michelin-starred restaurant chef shares tips on choosing delicious fish sauces that are "as easy as pie".

According to Summer (real name: Le Ha Uyen) - founder and head chef of Nen Light restaurant, one of the Michelin-starred restaurants in Ho Chi Minh City, she personally "prefers a balanced fish sauce with a stronger umami flavor".

Từ nước mắm pha được các loại chấm cả thế giới - Ảnh: Thanh Tuyền/ YÊU BẾP

From fish sauce to dipping sauces from all over the world - Photo: Thanh Tuyen/YEU BEP

How to choose good fish sauce? Chef Summer shares the following criteria:

1. Ingredients : Check the ingredients to make sure the fish sauce is made only from fish and salt, without any artificial additives or preservatives.

2. Protein content: The higher the protein content, the better. According to Le, Vietnam fish sauce standards (TCVN 5107:2003), the best fish sauce must have a protein content of over 30 degrees.

3. Color : The chef suggests that high-quality fish sauce has a clear, amber or beautiful reddish brown color. You can shake the fish sauce bottle and then turn it upside down, observing it under the light. If there is sediment stuck to the bottom of the bottle, it shows that there is precipitation, so do not choose it.

"This residue can be caused by salt and other additives added by the manufacturer," the chef advises.

4. Flavor: Look for a rich umami flavor with a balance of salty, sweet, and aromatic flavors.



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