Phu Tho is a land with many unique dishes, containing the culture, affection and sophistication of the people of the land of origin. In addition to famous culinary dishes such as fish, Phu Tho ear cake, banh chung, banh giay, co om, canarium fruit, sour cassava, sour meat... with the advantage of having many large rivers, Phu Tho's fish specialties are also extremely rich. Dishes made from fish are therefore always unique, new, and unforgettable for culinary connoisseurs...
After being caught, the catfish is gutted, drained and marinated with spices, mainly fermented rice.
After a long wait to eat braised catfish with eggplant - a unique dish of the fishermen, passed down for hundreds of years on the majestic Da River, we finally had the chance to enjoy it on a floating house in the middle of the water. The cooks are none other than those who make a living by fishing and raising fish in cages on the Da River every day. They understand every tide, every fishing season, the habits... of the specialty fish on the Da River as well as how to cook and prepare each type of fish like the back of their hands.
Quickly using a net to scoop up from the cage nearly a dozen catfish bigger than an adult's wrist, splashing cleanly in the clear, clean water of the Da River, Mr. Duong Tien Dung, Zone 5, Xuan Loc Commune (Thanh Thuy District) explained: "These are river catfish, I bought them from fishermen, put them in cages to grow bigger, only those who are familiar with them and know how to eat them will be caught, there are no fish for sale in bulk."
Eggplants must be young and free of worms. After being cut open, they will be mixed with raw eggplant and not soaked in water.
The shiny, firm, big and small river catfish were arranged in pots. Ms. Cuc - Mr. Dung's wife, a sharp-witted woman with a very good singing voice, jumped into the garden and a moment later brought back a basket of eggplants, white and plump. Excitedly introducing the dish she was preparing, she said: "This braised catfish and eggplant dish is from the fishermen on the river, but now few people can cook it, especially in restaurants. When you go out to eat, you can only have catfish in hot pot or braised, but I guarantee that this is the first time you will eat it, and once you eat it, you will remember it forever."
Catfish and eggplant are two rustic dishes harvested daily by fishermen.
Choosing eggplants that are free of worms, are young and round, Ms. Cuc peels the stem, cuts them in half, puts them in a pot, then runs into the kitchen to find a jar of fermented rice, scoops a few spoonfuls into the pot of eggplants, and mixes them well with both hands. She said: Mixing eggplants with fermented rice is a unique way of making the eggplants soft, fragrant and with a distinctive flavor when stewed with fish.
Next to him, Mr. Dung was also dissecting fish. His way of dissecting was very unique. The fish was dissected by making a diagonal cut at the head, cleaning the dirt and slime from the gills, then using a knife to scrape the slime along the fish's body and cutting it into pieces to remove the intestines. The pieces of fish cut into pieces looked firm, with prominent fibers, golden yellow like turmeric, and were arranged evenly in a small basin, then marinated with yeast, lard, salt, fish sauce, MSG and a few slices of chili.
Processing catfish before marinating is not complicated but must be done correctly to keep its inherent freshness...
After being processed, the fish will be marinated with yeast and spices to make it rich before braising.
Mr. Dung said: "Marinating fish requires yeast. When cooked, it will have an unforgettable sour and aromatic flavor and is very suitable for eating. It also helps to remove the fishy smell. Now we have modified it, adding MSG and fish sauce, but in the past, our ancestors only had yeast and refined salt. I think, when we were on the river, we ate whatever was convenient, there weren't many spices like now."
Putting the pan on the wood stove behind the house, Ms. Cuc explained: Cooking this dish with a wood stove is the right way. The wood fire is not as strong as a gas stove, so the fish and eggplant have time to absorb the spices and rice vinegar. Both hands stir the eggplant pan evenly, while stirring, seasoning and adding a little water, she said: Wait until the eggplant is cooked enough, then put the seasoned fish in to stew, until it starts to simmer. Running out to the garden, Mr. Dung picked a handful of perilla leaves, coriander, green onions... washed them and put them on a cutting board to chop them up. The fragrant smell of spices from the country vegetables wafted up in the small kitchen, mixed with the smell of stir-fried eggplant, the smell of rice vinegar... making the winter afternoon air at the windy riverside even more intense.
Braised catfish with fermented rice is a dish of fishermen, often cooked in cold weather, when the river breeze blows gently every afternoon by the hometown wharf.
Preparing a wide-brimmed bowl, Ms. Cuc did not forget to explain: This dish must be scooped out in a wide-brimmed bowl to be properly prepared, a small, deep bowl is not correct. Using a large ladle, scoop the cooked eggplant and fish into the bowl, not forgetting to sprinkle some herbs and spices. She added: "The spices added to the pot will lose their original color, so only add them when scooping them out, the hot water of the stew will cook the spices while still retaining their beautiful color. Today, my hands are a bit sluggish so the color is not very beautiful, please understand."
The aroma of fish, eggplant and rice vinegar along with spices makes the dish even more attractive, unique, and unforgettable after just one bite.
Spreading out a mat and placing a high tray in the middle of the floating house, Mr. Dung happily said: "It's done, not quite yet but I think it's delicious. Please come in and enjoy the specialties of my hometown Xuan Loc."
Sitting cross-legged beside a cup of strong wine, in the cool winter weather, we enjoyed the rich sweetness of fish, the rich flavor of eggplant in the seductive aroma of fermented rice water, fish, chives, spices... to absorb the delicious river dishes, business stories, and transformation from the thinking and way of thinking of the people of this majestic land along the Da River.
Spring is coming, delicious river dishes are also a unique feature in the cuisine of Da Giang people, making people's hearts happy with Spring....
National Assembly
Source: https://baophutho.vn/doc-dao-ca-nganh-om-ca-205680.htm
Comment (0)