Rice paper making in Da Nang becomes heritage

The traditional craft of Tuy Loan rice paper has existed for hundreds of years and has been recognized as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage.

The Tuy Loan rice paper making profession in Hoa Phong commune, Hoa Vang district, Da Nang city was included in the list of national intangible cultural heritage of traditional crafts by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism in February this year. In the ancient village of Tuy Loan, which is over 500 years old, there are currently 15 households following the profession. In the photo is the rice paper workshop of 80-year-old Dang Thi Tuy Phong. She is also a rare person in the village who has a daughter to follow in her footsteps.

To make rice paper, the worker must grind rice flour from late at night and wake up at 1-2am the next day, alternately spreading and drying the rice paper until about 10-12pm.

The flour used to make the cake must be milled from "Xiec" rice (13/2 rice) grown and harvested by the villagers. "Rice from other places cannot make the famous crispy Tuy Loan rice paper," said Mr. Phong.

After being ground, the flour will be mixed with spices such as fish sauce, salt, sugar, ginger, white sesame... According to artisans in the village, each facility has a different recipe for mixing spices, and the baked cakes can be eaten immediately.

The cake is coated in two layers and cooked by steam for 25-30 seconds. The experienced baker only needs to look at the amount of steam rising to use a thin bamboo stick dipped in boiling water to skillfully remove the cake from the cloth stretched over the pot.

Mr. Phong's facility often has students come to experience making rice paper. He and his daughter show them how to take the rice paper out of the pan.

The wet rice paper is spread on bamboo mats to dry. Whenever a group of students comes to experience the craft of making rice paper, the villagers are willing to guide them so that "the young generation knows how to make this specialty cake". According to Mr. Phong, rice paper making can bring in an income of 400-500 thousand VND a day. However, because the job often requires waking up early and hanging around the cake making room, many young people in the village do not choose to pursue this profession.

Most of the people in Tuy Loan village dry the rice paper with charcoal. The charcoal is taken from the rice paper ovens or charcoal. They do not dry the rice paper outside because "the rice paper has been seasoned, drying it outside will not ensure hygiene". "Drying the rice paper with charcoal can be done all year round and it dries faster, regardless of rain or in the winter when there is little sunshine", said Ms. Tran Thi Luyen, who has been making rice paper in Tuy Loan for more than 50 years.

Establishments like Mr. Phong and Mrs. Luyen’s usually make about 20 kg of rice per day, requiring one or two people to make 10 hours to make 160 cakes. The reason they choose the kitchen behind the house to make and dry the cakes is to limit dust. Each establishment makes 2-3 bamboo trays to dry the number of cakes made.

After about 6-7 hours of drying on charcoal, through many flips, the cake about 30 cm in diameter gradually turns yellow and dries from the inside out.

The dried cakes are packaged in dozens in a package, priced at VND22,000 each. Tuy Loan rice paper is mainly sold to agents and people who order in advance to send to relatives abroad.

Grilled rice paper costs 27,000 VND each. According to artisan Tran Thi Luyen, Tuy Loan rice paper is ordered in large quantities by many people from Da Nang - Quang Nam who have settled in the US every time they return to their hometown. For local people, this cake must be included in every death anniversary or offering tray.

Students enjoy the baking process as they sit around the warm stove and smell the aroma of fresh bread.

Artisans in the village are also happy that Tuy Loan rice paper has been included in the list of national intangible cultural heritage. "We hope that many people will know and enjoy this cake. Tourists coming here to experience making the cake will also help the craft village become more bustling," said Mr. Phong.

Nguyen Dong - Vnexpress.net

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