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The taste of home: Anchovies with their everlasting aroma.

Báo Thanh niênBáo Thanh niên21/08/2023


Remember this savory braised anchovy dish? It's easy to make, like taking something out of your pocket. Just marinate fresh anchovies with a few spoonfuls of fish sauce, sugar, and some seasoning. Put it on the stove over low heat, let it simmer for a while until the liquid reduces to a simmering level, and it's done. Before serving, sprinkle with a little black pepper.

White rice eaten with braised anchovies is simply amazing. The braising liquid is incredibly appetizing. I remember when I was a child, in my growing years, I'd run home from playing and rummage through the pot. The fish was gone, but just a little bit of the braising liquid was enough to make me happy. I'd scoop up a bowl, carry it out to the porch, and devour it. It was truly a "holy grail" that could make even a bowl of cold rice disappear.

Every now and then, my family braises anchovies with finely chopped fresh turmeric to "soothe" our stomachs. The seasonings are simple, but we need a generous amount of turmeric. The aroma of turmeric is unique – pungent yet alluring. The anchovies absorb the turmeric, turning a deep yellow, becoming tender but not mushy. Just a bite of each anchovy is enough to release its fragrant aroma. Sometimes, when the pot is almost empty, we scoop up a handful of turmeric scraps mixed in the thick, savory sauce and pour it over rice. A few spoonfuls and the bowl is empty.

Hương vị quê hương: Cá cơm thơm  hoài - Ảnh 1.

Delicious anchovies braised with turmeric

Dried anchovies for stewing must be soaked in warm water. Soaking helps restore the fish's softness after being dried in the sun for several days. Otherwise, the fish will become tough and lose its flavor. The stewed anchovies are seasoned with sugar, salt, and fish sauce, but with the addition of minced garlic sautéed in oil. This dish is the "main course" of the meal. Chopsticks are always drawn to the plate of stewed anchovies. The fish is firm but not tough, ensuring a soft texture even for the most sensitive teeth. In fact, the more you chew, the softer it becomes, and the more the fish's sweetness is released. If you stew a lot, the leftovers can be stored in a glass jar in the refrigerator. They'll still be delicious even a week later. This stew isn't just for rice; it'll make you want to eat a whole pot of plain porridge. It's also a great accompaniment to spicy food in many ways.

I'm reminded of anchovy soup with ripe tomatoes. In the hot summer, this dish is a great suggestion. A pot of water, a bowl of sliced ​​ripe tomatoes, a small bowl of any kind of anchovies, a little salt or fish sauce – and you have a delicious pot of soup. The culinary saying goes, "If you have vegetables, you'll need fish sauce." And a bowl of soup with ripe tomatoes is incredibly satisfying with rice. With this soup, the tails of the anchovies peel off, revealing the pristine white flesh and even the tiny bones – truly appealing. The broth has a savory anchovy aroma and a sweet, comforting ripe tomato scent.

Hương vị quê hương: Cá cơm thơm  hoài - Ảnh 2.

Sweet and sour braised anchovies

Hương vị quê hương: Cá cơm thơm  hoài - Ảnh 3.

Sweet and savory anchovy soup with perfectly cooked tomatoes.

As for anchovies, a bowl of thin, light porridge with scallions and ground pepper is a nourishing tonic after tiring hours of mending nets at night. Before drifting into a "summer night's dream," slurping a few bowls of anchovy porridge cools you from your liver to your intestines. The soft, tender anchovies mixed with the smooth porridge always caress the tongue, gently and subtly fragrant until the last bowl.

Fresh anchovies, still glistening with silver, can be marinated with lime juice, mixed with red onions, shredded unripe bananas, peanuts, and mint to make an incredibly delicious salad. Whenever you see three or four fishermen sitting on mats on the porch or setting up simple plastic tables under the shade of a tree in the early summer, you can be sure they're enjoying anchovy salad.



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