When the Michelin Guides for Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City were released in the middle of last year, they really caused a stir in public opinion. Many controversies broke out, because everyone had their own opinion, thinking that this restaurant was better than that restaurant, this dish deserved to be on the list more than that dish…
However, when Joshua Zukas asked locals for their Michelin street food recommendations in Hanoi on the record, their words were more measured.
The list is fairly predictable, consisting of restaurants that are already well-known in Hanoi, said Van Cong Tu, who has led street food tours for media outlets such as The Guardian, The New York Times and CNN since 2008.
"Michelin was right when they chose places that have existed for generations," added Truong Quang Dung, a chef. "In fact, some of the most interesting street food in Hanoi is not in the guidebook," he affirmed in an article in the American newspaper Business Insider .
Fish noodle shop next to the temple in Trung Yen alley
When making their selections, Michelin Guide inspectors look at five criteria: quality of ingredients, mastery of flavour, harmony of flavours, personality of the chef and consistency. Understandably, the focus is on the food.
Having spent over 10 years in Vietnam, Zukas strives to recommend places that offer a unique dining experience – beyond just great food. He takes into account not just the food, but also the atmosphere, setting, location, story behind the establishment, and the uniqueness of the experience. With that in mind, here are Zukas’ top street food spots in Hanoi.
1. Fish noodle soup in the alley next to the temple
Tucked away in an alley, Bun Ca Sam Cay Si (Trung Yen Alley) has been specializing in fish noodles – a dish that doesn’t even make it to the Michelin Guide – for over 20 years. Bun Ca is a rice noodle dish topped with crispy fried fish, dill, green onions and other herbs. Order here with nem ca, a type of fried fish cake.
The rich broth, crispy fish cakes and lively alley are enough reasons to eat here, but the bigger draw is probably the view. Next to the Sam Cay Si fish noodle soup is a shrine to the goddess Ba Dong Cuong, who is believed by the locals to live in the tree next door. The family who runs the street kitchen live behind the shrine and believe that if they keep it up, the goddess will bless their business.
2.A bowl of pho in a family's bedroom
Walk down an alley between two souvenir shops, climb the stairs and squat on small plastic stools before tucking into a bowl of pho Bung Hang Trong. Like all classic Hanoi pho, the broth is clear but simmered for most of the day to create a rich flavor. On a good day, it’s perfectly seasoned, but pickled garlic and chilli sauce add a little kick.
The eatery has been on the street for more than two decades, but the family moved the business to their home during one of the street food cleanup campaigns. The dining room serves as both the family’s bedroom, living room and a space for the lavishly decorated family altar, offering a rare glimpse into life in the Old Quarter.
3. Mixed Pho near two of the best streets in Hanoi
Many visitors leave Vietnam thinking pho is pho, when in fact the word refers to a range of dishes. One is pho tron, a brothless bowl of pho with meat, peanuts, greens and a sweet fish sauce. Try pho ga tron, which is not on the Michelin Guide, at Pho Hanh.
Pho Hanh is located near the corner of two of Hanoi’s oldest streets: Thuoc Bac and Lan Ong. These are two rare streets in Hanoi’s Old Quarter that still sell the products the street was originally named after. As you eat pho, the aroma of medicinal herbs and spices will fill the air.
4. Hot rice rolls with minced meat
The Old Quarter is the epicentre of Hanoi’s street food scene, but that doesn’t stop more adventurous exploration. North of the Old Quarter, Banh Cuon Nong Ho Tay (Yen Phu, Tay Ho) serves banh cuon, steamed rice paper rolls with minced pork, fried onions and mushrooms. Alternatively, order egg rolls wrapped in rice paper and some cha…
Part of the fun of eating banh cuon is watching the chef pour the rice flour into a large cloth steamer and roll the rice into delicate packages. Not only is it delicious, but you can sit at a table with women who have been making banh cuon for 40 years.
After breakfast, cross the street to Duy Tri, a traditional coffee shop in a tube house that has existed for nearly a century.
5. Duck vermicelli near the railway
Another dish that the Michelin Guide omitted is duck vermicelli, which is usually served in a rich, spicy broth. If the broth doesn’t appeal to you, order the duck vermicelli mixed with the broth served separately.
The appeal of Thanh Restaurant’s duck vermicelli (Tran Phu, Hoan Kiem) also lies in its proximity to the railway tracks. If the guard blocks the entrance to Hanoi’s famous Train Street, stop here for dinner instead. You can still see Hanoi as if it has stopped as the trains rumble by at 7pm, 7:45pm and 8:30pm every day.
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