Cambodia Irrawaddy dolphins represent the biodiversity of the Mekong River, often seen in the eastern town of Kratie.
Kratie is a small town of about 13,000 people on the banks of the Mekong River, with a mix of French-era architecture and modern structures. Kratie borders Vietnam’s Binh Phuoc province, and is described as “picturesque,” with stretches of white sand islands. The stretch of river north of the town is home to the Irrawaddy dolphin, an endangered species.
In 2007, the Cambodia Mekong Dolphin Conservation Project (CMDCP), a collaboration between the World Wildlife Fund (WWF), the Fisheries Management Organization and the Cambodian Rural Development Team (CRDT), reported that there were between 66 and 86 dolphins remaining in the last 180 km stretch of the Mekong River before it flows into Vietnam. This is considered a low number, indicating a high risk of extinction for this species in the world, according to Khmer Times .
Tourists row a boat to watch dolphins on the Mekong River. Photo: JP Klovstad
The Irrawaddy is a small, shy, dark grey dolphin with a pale underbelly, a small rounded dorsal fin and a straight, rounded head. It can reach 2.75 m in length, weigh 150 kg and is usually found in groups of six. The Irrawaddy is one of three dolphin species that live in both fresh and marine waters.
JP Klovstad, a 63-year-old Norwegian photographer who travels between Vietnam and Laos and Cambodia, said that in Kratie, tourists can rent a boat to see the dolphins. On the boat, you will admire the lovely fish as well as the idyllic scenery of the villages along the Mekong. The boatmen usually know where and when the dolphins will be, so you are almost guaranteed to see them.
Irrawaddy dolphins used to be common along the Mekong River from the Lao-Cambodian border to the delta in Vietnam and the Tonle Sap. But their populations and range have declined significantly over the past several decades. During the dry season from January to May, when water levels drop, they congregate in nine deep pools on a 180-km stretch of the Mekong from Kratie north to the Lao border. These pools provide safe habitat for dolphins to rest and forage, but such populations also make them vulnerable to fishing. During the rainy season, dolphins are occasionally seen south of Kratie.
According to JP Klovstad, by renting a motorbike, visitors can freely explore without having to plan much. If information is needed, most of the guesthouses in Kratie are available to help visitors. Besides, the residents here are quite friendly and always ready to help visitors when needed.
"The last time I went to Kratie was last May. I paid $7 to take a boat a few hundred meters out to see dolphins popping out of the water. Seeing them play and swim right in front of me was breathtaking," JP said.
The Irrawaddy dolphin spends most of its time foraging. It is not an active or acrobatic species, but will occasionally make low dives. The Irrawaddy usually dives for less than 2 minutes, but dives last longer when the animal is frightened. The lifespan of the Irrawaddy dolphin is around 30 years, and while some individuals reach adult size between the ages of 4 and 6, the specific age of sexual maturity is unknown. Calves grow at an impressive rate, measuring around 1m and 12kg at birth, growing over 50cm and weighing 33kg in their first 7 months. Females give birth every 2-3 years.
JP Klovstad suggests that if you want to explore more of Kratie, don't forget to visit the 100-pillar pagoda located in Sambor district. The special thing about this pagoda is that there are 100 columns built from clay and plaster. To get here, you travel 36 km north from the center of Kratie town. The 100-pillar pagoda is a place to visit to learn about the architecture and history of the land. Besides, you can also feel the peace and tranquility at the pagoda. There is also Phnom Sambok pagoda, a famous religious site located in Kratie province. The pagoda is located on the top of Phnom Sambok mountain, 11 km from the center of Kratie.
If you are a foodie, you definitely cannot miss the opportunity to enjoy specialties in Kratie such as freshly grilled corn cakes, dried buffalo meat and grilled beef.
The best time to visit is from January to May. You can also visit Kampi during Khmer New Year (mid-April) to enjoy the holiday.
To experience dolphin watching at the closest location, you should stay at Kampi Resort, you can row a boat to admire the sunset on the river.
Many tourists choose the road as a means of transportation from Vietnam to Cambodia, especially from the southern provinces. However, the travel time is quite long. From Ho Chi Minh City, it will take you 8 hours to get to Ha Tien (Kien Giang), 10-15 hours if you go from Ha Tien to either Siem Reap or Phnom Penh, then about 6-8 hours to Kratie. For these three stages, you should rest in Phnom Penh or Siem Reap to regain your strength, then arrange a schedule to Kratie.
Flights from Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi have reopened after Covid-19, but ticket prices are quite high, from 6 to 8 million VND round trip.
Thanh Thu
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