From the dish of the Tay Son army to the specialty of the martial land of Binh Dinh

Người Lao ĐộngNgười Lao Động31/01/2025

(NLDO) – “Land of martial arts, sky of literature” Binh Dinh has many famous culinary specialties. Among them, Tay Son rice rolls are also associated with historical battles.


Specialty "two raw one cooked"

It is called Tay Son rice rolls because this specialty originates from Tay Son district, Binh Dinh province - the hometown of the national hero Quang Trung - Nguyen Hue.

Từ món ăn của nghĩa quân Tây Sơn thành đặc sản đất võ Bình Định- Ảnh 1.

Local people prepare ingredients to roll Tay Son rice rolls.

The first impression that makes many people excited when enjoying Tay Son rice rolls is its "giant" size. Each roll made by the locals is usually more than 5 cm in diameter and more than 20 cm long, so adults only need one roll to be full.

The next impression is that Tay Son rice rolls are also called "two raw and one cooked". The reason it is called that is because the rolls are made from 3 rice papers made from rice flour or wheat flour. The outermost layer is 2 raw rice papers dipped in water, the inside is 1 cooked rice paper.

The fillings inside the rice rolls include all sorts of things, such as: grilled beef, fermented pork roll, raw vegetables, boiled duck eggs, chopped cucumber, spring rolls, pork rolls... All of these ingredients are rolled into a roll as big as an adult's arm. When enjoying, you have to eat slowly.

The filling for the spring rolls is carefully and meticulously prepared by the locals. The grilled meat must be marinated a day in advance so that it can absorb the heat. When grilled, the meat only needs to be caught by the hot coals, cooked through, creating an attractive aroma. The spring rolls are as small as a finger, the filling inside includes shrimp and meat. The duck eggs must also be from free-range ducks, with a rich, golden yolk.

Tay Son rice rolls will be bland if the dipping sauce is not right. According to locals, the dipping sauce used for rice rolls is made from two main parts: pure fish sauce and ground roasted peanuts.

Từ món ăn của nghĩa quân Tây Sơn thành đặc sản đất võ Bình Định- Ảnh 3.

The filling inside the Tay Son rice cake

When eating, we will feel all the delicious flavors of the cake, from the spiciness of the chili, the sourness of the spring rolls, the strong flavor of the herbs, the stickiness of the raw rice paper, the crispiness of the spring rolls and the cooked rice paper.

Contribute to making historical battles

According to many local elders, Tay Son rice rolls have been around for hundreds of years. Initially, rice rolls consisted of rice paper rolled with cold rice. This was a "hunger-fighting" dish for farmers when they went to the fields.

Among the reasons leading to the victory of the resistance war against the Manchu invaders in the spring of the year of the Rooster (1789), in addition to the strategic factors, tactics, and military talent of Nguyen Hue, the lightning attack power of the Tay Son army..., another factor must be mentioned: food. With a distance of nearly 650 km from Phu Xuan to Thang Long, a huge army could not march to victory if food was not guaranteed.

Từ món ăn của nghĩa quân Tây Sơn thành đặc sản đất võ Bình Định- Ảnh 4.

Each person only needs to eat one Tay Son rice cake to be full.

To increase mobility, on the march, the Tay Son army limited cooking and used a specially prepared dry food that could be eaten while fighting, which was banh cuon.

According to poet Quach Tan in his book "Nuoc non Binh Dinh" (Thanh Nien Publishing House, Hanoi, 1999), from a very rustic dish of their homeland, the Tay Son army created a "dry food" dish to use during long-distance battles, which was rice paper rolls with beef jerky.

Each soldier was given some rice paper, beef jerky, and a little fish sauce. At mealtime, the soldier only needed to roll the beef jerky in rice paper and dip it in fish sauce to be full, without having to light a fire to cook rice.

Perhaps because they saved a lot of time eating and drinking while marching, the Tay Son army marched very quickly in each land campaign, leaving the opponent no time to react.

Từ món ăn của nghĩa quân Tây Sơn thành đặc sản đất võ Bình Định- Ảnh 5.

Tay Son rice rolls have a "giant" size

Folklore also says that the reason why rice paper was called "banh da" when it came to the North was because when fighting in the Dong Da battle, the Tay Son army used rice paper so commonly that people called rice paper "Dong Da battle cake", later it was gradually simplified to two words: "banh da".



Source: https://nld.com.vn/tu-mon-an-cua-nghia-quan-tay-son-thanh-dac-san-dat-vo-binh-dinh-196250124121228922.htm

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