My friend in Hanoi said that the Northwest has its own scenery in every season, and that any month is beautiful. The Northerner and the Southerner made an appointment a few hours in advance to put on their backpacks. We couldn’t go to Mu Cang Chai during the golden rice season in October, so we had to go during the straw season.
The villagers are always friendly to tourists - Photo: TRUONG ANH QUOC
We didn't read the instructions, just took a shared car and went on a whim. Traveling spontaneously is fun, everything that catches our eye is always new and interesting.
From Hanoi, following the Hanoi – Lao Cai highway, we easily reached Yen Bai after more than three hours. We thought that at this rate we would arrive soon. But the next leg of the journey was not as we had imagined.
Mu Cang Chai low season
Not being the tourist season, there are few vehicles from Yen Bai to Mu Cang Chai. Tourists go to Mu Cang Chai mainly by shuttle bus of hotel or homestay owners.
Thanks to 4.0 technology and the support of the carpooling driver union, we were able to get a Yen Bai - Mu Cang Chai trip in a few notes at an affordable price.
Traveling on the winding and dangerous mountain pass, I realized why there were no buses on this route. Passengers chose to take a shared car, which was a little more expensive but much faster and safer.
We were lucky to meet a driver who was familiar with the roads, knowledgeable about the culture of the Northwest, had an artistic streak, and was not constrained by time. So the three of us were like a group of companions.
When we arrived at Nghia Lo for lunch, it was raining heavily. We were worried that we wouldn’t be able to see the mountains and hills when the driver said, “Don’t worry. The weather here and up there is completely different.”
Indeed, as we gradually reached the top of Khau Pha Pass (one of the four legendary mountain passes of the Northwest region), the sky became clearer. The clouds gradually turned white in the distance.
Getting out of the car, we saw several groups of guests sitting grilling corn and watching the clouds. We felt like we were standing on an island surrounded by a sea of white clouds.
Cloud hunting on Khau Pha hilltop – Photo: TRUONG ANH QUOC
We leisurely walked along the road to see the scenery and enjoy Tu Le sticky rice. We arrived in Mu Cang Chai when the golden sun had set. We rented a motorbike and drove along the winding Nam Kim stream flowing westward in the freezing cold.
In the evening, sitting on the sunny rooftop cafe, watching Mu Cang Chai town gradually sink into the wet night mist until the young people playing soccer at the stadium flock home.
A Mong woman sews on the porch – Photo: TRUONG ANH QUOC
The next day, the driver was still asleep, we got up and left town. You said it was fun to go off-season, no parking fees or check-in points, no jostling or being solicited to buy anything.
The locals weave anytime, anywhere and are always welcoming to tourists.
On the heritage terraced fields
Raspberry in Mu Cang Chai after the rice harvest season, where we can jump around like children – Photo: TRUONG ANH QUOC
We were free to wander around the terraced fields, smell the sweet smell of straw, and jump around on the trays of raspberries instead of just admiring them like when there was still rice. In the midst of having fun, my friend stepped on a pile of dry buffalo dung.
The motorbike creaked through the village, at times it seemed like it was about to fall over when climbing the tiny steep slopes. This was La Pan Tan. Suddenly remembering the novel Meeting at La Pan Tan, I called the writer Ma Van Khang. He said: "I really like that name". The name is so good that many places in the Northwest have that name. You like the people here, they are so gentle, naturally gentle and cheerful, and straight like the bamboo of Na Hang Tua Chu forest.
Traveling while there is still rice, visitors cannot stand on a raspberry hill like this - Photo: TRUONG ANH QUOC
For generations, the Mong people have been clearing the land to create winding terraced fields. The Mong people have cleared the hills to create terraced fields typical of the Northwest mountains. The raspberry fields are as beautiful as a painting.
Now the villagers have started to weed and clear the banks. They take water from distant streams to irrigate the fields in preparation for the new crop. While the lowlanders level fertile fields to build houses and industrial zones, the Mong people have created and preserved terraced fields as a heritage.
A raspberry plant that both grows rice and raises fish, looks like an infinity pool
Mu Cang Chai terraced fields are not only beautiful during the rice ripening season – Photo: TRUONG ANH QUOC
Raspberry hills after harvest
I am a farmer so I like the rice fields with the smell of straw, like the smooth pebble streams lying in layers. My friend likes the bright yellow wild sunflowers. He said that going to Mu Cang Chai to see wild sunflowers is not inferior to Da Lat - Lam Dong.
When I reached the section with wild sunflowers, I always drove slowly because I knew that the person sitting behind me could jump off at any moment to take pictures of the flowers. When I reached the top of the high hill and looked down, I suddenly felt small in front of the majestic and extremely peaceful scene.
Two urgent weekends just for a quick trip, make an appointment to visit Mu Cang Chai when the month is long and the days are long. Life is never short of unexpected trips. When we listen and open our hearts, every moment becomes a precious asset in life.
Mu Cang Chai, even though only visited once, left an unforgettable impression, like the terraced fields that keep rising higher and higher, standing firm with time.
This season, visitors will see pumpkins on the roof when the pumpkin vines are bare - Photo: TRUONG ANH QUOC
Guests enjoy the view from A Su homestay in Ta Chi Lu village, La Pan Tan
Pumpkins on the roof when the pumpkin vine is bare
Pigs on the road also look at tourists
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