New Zealand Herald reporter Jennifer Johnston took a 17-day spring cruise through Asia, and on day 15 the ship slowly made its way down the Saigon River, eventually docking in Ho Chi Minh City. Guests spent two nights in Vietnam’s most populous city, where they were free to explore the cuisine.
The cruise ship group booked dinner at Anan Saigon out of curiosity because it is the only Michelin-starred restaurant (1 star awarded by the Michelin Guide in 2023). The restaurant was also listed in Asia's 50 best restaurants in 2021, 2023 and was voted the best restaurant in Vietnam in the same year.
Chef Peter Cuong Franklin and his team at Anan Saigon
Chef Peter Cuong Franklin opened Anan Saigon in 2017. Anan (which means “eat, eat”) is located in District 1 on a narrow alley in the middle of one of Ho Chi Minh City’s busiest food markets – the Old Market.
Peter left his banking job in the US to pursue his love and passion for food. He studied French cooking at Le Cordon Bleu cooking school in Paris. After working in restaurants abroad and running two restaurants in Hong Kong, Peter returned to Vietnam in 2017.
His childhood memories are surrounded by food. His mother had a small noodle shop in her living room, he says, and his creations are inspired by her and Vietnam’s vibrant street food culture, while also adding French culinary techniques from his Le Cordon Bleu training.
A "Michelin" loaf of bread in Anan
"Anan is a modern Vietnamese restaurant but at the same time it is rooted in history and tradition. People often ask me why I chose to open Anan in a local market instead of a 5-star hotel. Because the market is where fresh local ingredients are sourced but also the inspiration for the cuisine at Anan," he explains.
"As our cuisine and society modernize, we must not lose our traditional culture. The deep historical roots of Cho Cu Market remind me and my team to prepare authentic dishes that people love to eat, stay close to real life, and most importantly, do not forget our roots," he added.
Hanoi fish cake dish
In November 2023, Peter also opened Pot Au Pho on the third floor above Anan, heralding a decades-long effort to elevate Vietnam’s national dish, pho, to new heights. It was also a tribute to his mother’s traditional noodle shop in Da Lat.
Jennifer Johnston's group of five chose the 10-course "Chef's Tasting Menu." She said Anan focused on modern presentation and that each dish was a work of art. The flavors were amazing. Chef Peter visited the table and showed us how to enjoy the Bourdain bun cha (the fifth course, named after the master chef Anthony Bourdain).
Anan is the only star restaurant in Ho Chi Minh City.
“This is a ‘one bite, one drink’ version of our famous spring rolls,” he explains. Peter carefully picks up the spring roll from the plate and wraps it in a cabbage leaf. As he chews, he explains, all the flavours are released. You can also taste some garlic along with the pork, pickles and herbs…
Her group of friends split the bill into five portions, each paying around VND2.1 million. Although it was the most expensive meal the group had in Saigon, for a Michelin-starred restaurant, it was indeed “cheap”. Back on the boat, one of the group summed up the dining experience perfectly: “Anan is a great fusion of East and West”.
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