But if you need a moment of silence, a privacy to look back at yourself: Lang Co helps you.
Lap An Lagoon (Lang Co town, Phu Loc district, Thua Thien Hue province) is clear and peaceful. Photo: TUE TAM
Part 1: Dating at Lap An lagoon
Coming to Lang Co, the beginning of appointments, nostalgia, and passion
In June, the sea is calm, and when you come to Lang Co, you will see with your own eyes the waves like potato fields rolling on the sea surface, breaking on the sandbank. And Lap An lagoon is so clear that you can see the fish swimming.
Early day on the lagoon
Lap An lagoon is a natural resource and the livelihood of the people living along the lagoon. For them, the rhythm of each day depends on the water level. Sunny, the water surface is long and wide. Rainy, the lagoon surface is muddy in some places, clear in others. Nature is inherently beautiful in its own right, how much one enjoys it depends on each person.
Early in the morning, the grass and trees were wet with dew, Mrs. Nguyen Thi Hoa, Hoi Dua village (Lang Co town) woke up and hurriedly prepared for the "sloppy" work in the lagoon: "In the past, we sisters just quietly caught clams. Many times, we were casual with each other without any hesitation. Now, we are more presentable because tourists roam in the lagoon."
Dawn is always a beautiful time, some birds also wake up early to spread their wings on the surface of the lagoon. The magical sunset from the foot of Bach Ma mountain makes footsteps. Mrs. Hoa loves the moments in the lagoon. Because the lagoon is not only a place to make a living but also a place of bitter and sweet feelings.
In the past, many elderly women living in many residential areas: Hoi Dua, Hoi Mit, Hoi Can, Loan Ly, An Cu Dong, An Cu Tay, Mieu Chua... caught clams for a living. Now, they catch clams for fun, for old memories. In the past, they caught clams for food, now they catch clams for food.
The weather in June was hot and sunny, so soaking in the water in the pond was also a way to cool off. They had their own story, a long story, and they walked in groups of four or five, and after a while, two of them went their separate ways, and three of them went their separate ways.
Hue people always remember their origins, wherever they go they always carry the soul of Hue in their cuisine and gestures. But what about people from other places who come to live in Hue? Ms. Hoa briefly told us that she was born and raised in Lang Co town, but her hometown is in Hoa Vang district (Da Nang). Her great-grandfather migrated here in the early 20th century to establish a village, living by farming, burning charcoal and fishing in the lagoon.
“We have many things in common with Hue people but still maintain some old customs. On death anniversaries and Tet holidays, there must be banh thung (rice cake) displayed on the altar. Festivals must have Quang noodles, rice paper rolls with pork, fish sauce…”, Ms. Hoa said.
In the past, when there was no electricity grid, the lives of people around Lap An lagoon took place in a rustic, manual way, closely connected to nature.
Mr. Huynh Van Chay, 78 years old, living in Hoi Can residential area, said: “People usually start their day very early. Everyone takes advantage of the sunlight and cool weather to go to the fields and lagoons. Fishing is often done with small boats and rudimentary tools such as nets, baskets, and hooks.”
Hearing that, I also want to return to the old days, the peaceful atmosphere, the sound of oars splashing water creating a quiet and poetic scene. Over time, the people here have accumulated a lot of valuable experience and skills in fishing.
“In the evening, when fishing is over, people return home with fresh fish and shrimp. The whole family gathers around the fire, preparing a simple dinner. The salty dishes are cooked in the traditional way, creating a rich flavor,” Mr. Chay said.
“When the sun sets, the village gradually sinks into darkness. The oil lamps are also lit sparingly, just enough light to mend clothes, pick dried fish and shrimp, and let the children study,” Mrs. Hoa said softly.
In addition to fishing, people around Lap An lagoon also participate in handicrafts such as weaving nets, making fishing traps, and making tools from bamboo. These handicrafts not only serve daily needs but also provide additional income for families.
Life without electricity also means that entertainment and socializing mainly take place during the day or under the moonlight, in a simple but colorful local style. Despite the lack of material and conveniences, there is a closeness to nature and a strong sense of community.
Clam diving in Lap An lagoon, Lang Co town, Phu Loc district, Thua Thien Hue province. Photo: HOA ANH
Lap An lagoon is no longer quiet
The vast lagoon is no longer peaceful. The beautiful natural picture has been embellished by human desires, under the beautiful name of “tourism development”. If tourism is developed properly, it will bring income to the people and revenue to the locality. But in addition to the benefits, in reality, tourism in the lagoon also has dark sides.
The Bach Ma range “squeezes” all the fresh water from the lagoon. The Lang Co land stretches out from the outside to the inside, preventing Lap An lagoon from merging into the sea. The water in the lagoon is never fresh, and never salty. And it is this mixed condition that makes the ecosystem in the lagoon like a gift from nature. Lap An lagoon has clams, stone crabs, silver pomfret, grouper, catfish, snapper, and silver carp…
Going to small restaurants along Lap An lagoon, I often meet slim, flexible women. If I don’t eat anything in their restaurant, I will lose the opportunity to chat and learn about the cuisine of this place. Steamed snails with lemongrass and ginger. Grilled clams, green mussels with scallion oil, steamed with basil. Perhaps, I have to stay here for a week to have enough time to enjoy the local dishes. The porridge and seafood soup here are seasoned just right.
But many people like the convenience. Floating restaurants suddenly appeared on the lake. Lap An lagoon is not outside the trend of hot development. In addition to affecting the landscape, there are also cleaning chemicals, waste and many other bad things sent to the clear water source. Customers come and go bustlingly.
Here, they were quickly fed mediocre food, served on plates with toppings, bowls overflowing with clever cooks… The victory belonged to the restaurant. The percentage belonged to the driver, the tour guide. And a certain unpleasant part belonged to Lap An lagoon.
In recent years, Lap An lagoon has seen the appearance of many oyster farming households. There are two types of oysters on the market: rock oysters and milk oysters.
However, in Lap An lagoon, only rock oysters can be raised. Mr. Nguyen Van Tuong, an oyster farmer in Lap An lagoon, said: “Rock oysters have hard, thick shells, and are larger in size than milk oysters. Rock oyster shells are often rough, with a dark gray or brown surface. Milk oysters have thinner, smoother shells, are smaller in size, and are lighter gray in color than rock oysters.”
Regarding the preparation of these two types of oysters, a petite woman, owner of Phuong Dien restaurant, a “small” restaurant in Lang Co, said: “Rock oysters are firmer and chewier, have a rich flavor, and a strong aroma. Rock oysters are often preferred when grilled, grilled with cheese or cooked in porridge. Milk oysters are soft, fatty, and have a sweet taste. Milk oysters are suitable for eating raw, making sashimi or cooking dishes with a light flavor.”
Lap An lagoon has brackish water, with a large area of about 7,100 hectares, and a water surface area of about 1,647 hectares. The water color of the lagoon changes over time and weather, sometimes blue, sometimes warm yellow under the sunlight, creating a magical scene.
Source: https://danviet.vn/mot-dam-nuoc-lo-dep-nhu-phim-o-tt-hue-la-liet-con-dac-san-sao-dan-phan-nan-cha-con-yen-tinh-2024072900020651.htm
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