Hot rice cake, grilled herring - rich flavor of Hoang Mai coastal countryside

Fresh herring caught by local fishermen near shore. Photo: Thanh Thuy

Located about 200km south of Hanoi , Con Temple is located on the Mai Giang River, in Quynh Phuong Ward (Hoang Mai Town, Nghe An). It is a famous relic of Nghe An that attracts a large number of tourists every year.

The first months of the year are the time when Hoang Mai fishermen are busy catching herring, because this is the time when herring is the most abundant, fat, and nutritious of the year. After a night of fishing near the shore, small-capacity boats of local fishermen can catch 2-3 tons of herring, bringing in tens of millions of dong in revenue.

Herrings are grilled on charcoal stoves. Photo: Thanh Thuy

Fresh herrings, after being transported ashore, will be purchased by traders and sold to Thanh Hoa and Ninh Binh provinces, and a portion will be sold to local markets, Vinh City and districts in Nghe An province. Retailers often sell fresh or grilled herrings, depending on the tastes of local people...

After being grilled, the herring turns golden yellow and has a delicious flavor. Photo: Thanh Thuy

For decades, grilled herring at Con Temple has become a specialty of Hoang Mai sea, attracting diners. The herring chosen for grilling is usually the batch that has just been caught and brought ashore, still fresh. After being cleaned, the fish is grilled directly on a charcoal stove to serve diners. The herring in Hoang Mai sea is fatty, the meat is fragrant and sweet, rich in nutrients, good for health and cheap, so it attracts many people.

Banh muot is made on the spot to ensure it is always hot. Photo: Thanh Thuy

The charcoal stove for grilling herring is simple, just an old aluminum basin, people fill it with charcoal and light it until it is red hot. On top of the basin is a homemade grill to put the fish on.

Quickly flipping each herring over the charcoal stove, Ms. Nguyen Thi Quyet, a veteran of grilling herring at Con Temple, said: At the beginning of this year, the number of visitors to Con Temple is high, every day she grills about 50-70kg of herring. To have delicious fish, you have to sit and watch the stove to blow the charcoal properly and turn the fish regularly. The most important thing is to know when the fish is just cooked and meets the standards.

Herring and rice cakes have become specialties imbued with the flavor and soul of the land and people of Hoang Mai coastal region. Photo: Thanh Thuy

Grilled herring has an eye-catching golden yellow color and a fragrant aroma. Grilled herring is often served with raw vegetables, fig leaves and hot rice rolls. The freshly made rice rolls are still hot, served with a plate of hot grilled herring, just looking at them is enough to make diners exclaim. The dipping sauce is pure fish sauce, squeezed with a few drops of lemon and slices of fresh chili or maybe shrimp paste. Grilled herring and rice rolls, while eating and sniffing, will clearly feel the soul of the coastal countryside.

Ms. Nguyen Hoang Ha, a tourist from Thanh Hoa, said: Every year, from the 10th to the 15th of the first lunar month, my family often goes to Con Temple. After the ceremony, the whole family often chooses to enjoy the herring cake because it is unique, delicious and affordable.

Tourists enjoy grilled herring with banh muot at the sacred temple of Nghe An. Photo: Thanh Thuy

There are many places selling herring and banh muot like this in the Con Temple area. Banh muot is served to tourists for 20,000 VND/plate. Grilled herring is sold for 2,000 VND/fish. In addition, many tourists also order grilled fish to take home.

Grilled herring served with hot rice paper has become a dish imbued with the rich flavor and soul of the coastal villagers, a culinary culture of the land and people of the coastal town of Hoang Mai./.

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