Paris has too many cafes?

Paris allows shops to add tables and chairs in public spaces, bringing profits to businesses but causing complaints from residents.

The sound of clinking glasses echoes as crowds sip chilled rosé and cheese at cafes and restaurants in Paris’ Bastille district. Waiters weave through the crowd with trays of oysters. Children play tag, occasionally running up to their parents. Tourists order drinks and snap Instagram photos of their European travels.

Customers sit and eat in the outdoor areas of Parisian restaurants in the summer. Photo: Paris unlocked

The French capital has long been known for its cafe culture. Before the pandemic, there were about 13,000 shops with outdoor spaces. To support businesses struggling during the pandemic, Mayor Anne Hidalgo signed a decree in 2021 to open thousands of outdoor spaces, also known as "summer terraces." These are flat areas outside cafes or restaurants where people can sit, eat, drink and enjoy the surrounding space.

Thanks to a mayoral decree, once-deserted or little-visited areas of Paris have been transformed into vibrant destinations. However, these terraces are only allowed to open from April to November each year and close at 10pm each day.

Place d'Aligre is one of the places where the government has allowed more space for businesses. "The scene has changed completely," said Laurent Zennadi, who runs a family-run cafe. "No one used to come here in the evenings, but now it's different."

Salvatore Cantarella, owner of the Italian restaurant, said he has welcomed a wave of new customers. Business has been brisk. "I am very happy with the positive results," Salvatore said.

"It's lovely here," says Claire-Anne Haines, sitting behind a small table with friends on the terrace of a bistro on rue Condorcet in Montmartre. "The terrace looked beautiful when I was cycling past, so I told my friends to come over."

The changes are part of the mayor's plan to turn Paris into an environmentally friendly city, dedicating public spaces to pedestrians and shared activities.

A cafe with outdoor space on Montmartre hill. Photo: Paris unlocked

But not everyone welcomes the changes.

Residents living around the restaurant areas have complained about the noise created by tourists. They have pressed the government to tighten control over public spaces. Some have criticized Mayor Hidalgo for allowing businesses to privatize public spaces. Drivers have complained about the loss of parking spaces. Many say the abundance of restaurant terraces has ruined the city’s charm.

“The situation is terrible,” said Eric Durand, spokesman for Droit au Sommeil (Right to Sleep), a citizens’ group with representatives in every district of Paris. Durand said the noise had increased exponentially where he lives, near the Rue des Abbesses in Montmartre. Some of his neighbors have moved out. Those who cannot afford to move are forced to keep their windows shut. “We want this invasion of public space to stop,” said Durand.

But at city hall, a government representative said summer terraces would still be allowed to continue. "Paris is the city of coffee. They are part of the French art de vivre," said Olivia Polski, the deputy mayor responsible for commerce.

Paris now has around 4,000 licensed summer terraces that pay a fee. They must meet new rules on aesthetics, noise, and must close by 10 p.m. Polski said these establishments are not allowed to play loud music, and owners could be fined or have their licenses revoked if they violate them.

At Chez Camille, the Zennadis have added 100 seats to the 400 they already have on Place d'Aligre. Last year, they spent $16,500 to secure a permit to expand the space on the square, adding tables and chairs to the outdoor area. They recently purchased a microbrewery to boost profits.

"Nobody wanted this pandemic to happen. But in some ways, we can be grateful for the good things it has brought," Zennadi said as she gathered with a group of friends on the bar's sunny terrace for an aperitif.

Anh Minh (According to NYT )

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