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Hue people do not eat in big bowls, whatever they eat must be small and moderate.

Báo Tuổi TrẻBáo Tuổi Trẻ25/05/2024


Từ trái qua: tác giả Vũ Thế Thành, nghệ nhân ẩm thực Nguyễn Thị Phiên, bác sĩ, họa sĩ Thân Trọng Minh - Ảnh: HỒ LAM

From left to right: author Vu The Thanh, culinary artist Nguyen Thi Phien, doctor and painter Than Trong Minh - Photo: HO LAM

On the morning of May 25, at Museum Coffee, a discussion on Hue Street Food took place with doctor, painter Than Trong Minh, culinary lecturer Nguyen Thi Phien, and Mr. Vu The Thanh - author of the book Hue Street Food .

The conversation revolved around some interesting stories about the taste and culinary spirit of Hue people. How do Hue people eat? What is the spirit in their dishes?

Why do Hue people only eat for the aroma and flowers?

Writer Nguyen Tuan once commented that Hue people like to eat with their eyes. But even though they use all their senses to absorb nutrients, Hue people only eat for the aroma and the flowers, as they often say about themselves.

In Hue Street Food , author Vu The Thanh wrote:

Bìa sách Ẩm thực ven đường Huế

Hue Street Food Book Cover

"After 1975, I had to go to work digging canals, so that intellectuals would know what 'labor is glorious' means.

In the group, there was a friend named Hue who did everything slowly and spoke slowly. At mealtimes, he slowly took out a handkerchief to wipe the dishes and chopsticks.

I smiled, "Now that we're here, how can we be clean?" He answered leisurely, "Even if the rice mixed with rice isn't delicious, a clean bowl will still be easier to swallow." He truly had the demeanor of a king in every situation!

I wonder if this leisurely style has any effect on the “a little bit of everything” in rustic Hue dishes?”...

From the perspective of a Saigonese, Mr. Vu The Thanh said that Hue people eat a little bit of everything. For example, the first time he ate rice with mussels in Hue, he had to eat 3 or 4 bowls to be full. To him, rice with mussels was so delicious that it was impossible to describe in words.

"When I arrived in Hue, I ate my first bowl of mussel rice from a street vendor. The rice was so delicious that I thought that people studying for exams only needed to eat 2 or 3 bowls to keep their minds 'clear' all night."

Lecturer and Hue culinary artist Nguyen Thi Phien said that Hue people are hospitable. In each death anniversary, they prepare from 20 to 30 dishes, a little bit of each to serve more guests.

In terms of trade, Hue cakes are smaller than those in the South so that even those with limited budgets can enjoy them.

Hue street food evokes old memories

Author Vu The Thanh said he wrote about Hue street food because his mother was also a street vendor. For him, eating also brings with it memories of relatives and family.

The childhood memories of doctor and painter Than Trong Minh are also associated with food and Hue city.

"My house is on the rocky cliff. There are many street vendors down there. Every afternoon, my mother often orders Nam Pho noodle soup for her children when they are hungry. Then we often cycle up Ngu Binh mountain to eat banh beo.

Besides the story of taste, the roadside eateries in Hue also remind me of unforgettable memories of a bygone era" - Mr. Minh confided.

A reader from Hue who came to the talk show shared that the book Hue Street Food reminded her and her friends of many childhood memories in their hometown:

"When I was a kid, at 3 or 4 pm, we often went to eat tofu and mussel rice at street stalls. Each portion was just a little bit like that.

Hue people do not eat in big bowls or plates. Whatever they eat, it must be small and moderate.

Many people also say that Hue people do not eat out. In the past, Hue girls who ate out or on the streets were criticized.

From the perspective of author Vu The Thanh, he feels humorously:

"At first, I titled this book Hue Street Food . Some Hue friends in Saigon told me that using the word "sidewalk" was not appropriate for Hue because in the past, Hue girls did not eat out, their parents forbade it.

At most, I would buy it from a street vendor and bring it home to eat. This was probably true, Hue girls were traditionally reserved, with strict family traditions in their speech, at least my generation, not as simple and straightforward as girls in the South, so I still hesitated a bit.

When I asked my friends in Hue where they could find good food, they told me in detail. One lady even said that this dish usually has to be made in An Cuu market to get the Hue flavor. "Secrecy" often comes with skillful skills, only those who have been exposed and those who have not been exposed."



Source: https://tuoitre.vn/nguoi-hue-khong-an-chen-to-to-an-chi-mo-cung-phai-nho-nho-vua-vua-20240525143908239.htm

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