Think bigger for Vietnamese pho.

Illustration photo: NAM TRAN

Late last year, at a press conference introducing the Hanoi Food Culture Festival 2023, Mr. Do Dinh Hong - Director of the Hanoi Department of Culture and Sports - informed that, following the dossier for the registration of Hanoi pho as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage, Hanoi will also cooperate with Nam Dinh and some other localities to build a dossier to propose that UNESCO register the art of Vietnamese pho cooking as a Representative Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

Which pho is the "authentic" pho?

Both were recently added to the list of National Intangible Cultural Heritage a few days ago.

When asked by Tuoi Tre newspaper about "cooperation" to further promote the image of pho, the Department of Culture, Sports and Tourism of Nam Dinh province stated that nothing concrete has been decided yet.

The province does not deny that it views this as a goal to strive for. However, this is not solely a local aspiration but largely depends on the will of higher levels of government in building a national cultural brand.

For a long time, it's been easy to see that Nam Dinh pho and Hanoi pho have had an unspoken rivalry.

Where is pho actually from?

Which type of pho is better?

There's debate about Northern pho versus Southern pho. Saigon pho has also become the subject of public debate simply because it's served with a variety of herbs and generous toppings, including beef meatballs, and is eaten with dark soy sauce.

A "war" with no end in sight.

When the folk knowledge of pho (commonly known as the pho-making craft) of Nam Dinh and Hanoi was included in the list of National Intangible Cultural Heritage, a lot of debate arose online about which pho is the real deal.

Noisy, localized, and quite "provincial." Ultimately, it all stems from the somewhat endearing and idealistic mindset of "my hometown is the best," and "I'll go back to my own pond to bathe, whether it's clear or muddy, my own pond is still better."

However, it must be said that this kind of endearing attitude is not very friendly. The "my hometown is the best" mentality downplays, or even denies, the richness and diversity of Vietnamese pho in particular and Vietnamese culture in general. Not to mention, it creates a somewhat negative, petty, and win-or-lose atmosphere.

In this context, aiming for a common goal, a greater recognition beyond our borders, would likely usher in an unprecedented event.

At that time, for the first time, Nam Dinh pho or Hanoi pho, Northern pho or Southern pho could temporarily "lose their names" because of a common name: Vietnamese pho.

And within Vietnamese pho, there's Hanoi pho, Nam Dinh pho, Saigon pho, Cao Bang pho... Thinking this way shows that the path Vietnamese pho is taking is a broad, diverse, and rich one. What's there to lose by thinking beyond the "aftermath" of being recognized as a national cultural heritage?

The clear, light broth and chewy noodles of pho are a beloved combination not only in Vietnam but all over the world - Photo: Chosun Ilbo

When will pho become a World Heritage site?

To date, UNESCO has inscribed more than 600 intangible cultural heritage sites from 140 countries and territories.

Vietnam has 14 intangible cultural heritage sites representing humanity and one intangible cultural heritage site in need of urgent safeguarding (Ca Tru) on the list. However, no heritage related to cuisine has been named, even though Vietnam has long been considered a culinary "paradise".

Vietnamese pho has a long history and tradition, is a "national" dish found in many provinces and cities, and is loved by international tourists.

Recently, two of the many pho-making regions, along with the folk knowledge that shaped it, have been recognized as national intangible cultural heritage.

But 17 years ago, in 2007, pho entered the world-renowned Oxford Dictionary as a proper noun, a cultural identifier, referring to a dish unique to Vietnam.

Pho – Vietnam's "culinary ambassador" – could become a representative intangible cultural heritage of humanity? Artisan Le Thi Thiet, president of the Nam Dinh Culinary Culture Association, told Tuoi Tre newspaper, "Why not?" and "we should also consider this to improve our own industry."

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Source: https://tuoitre.vn/nghi-lon-hon-cho-pho-viet-20240817100539453.htm