Unforgettable braised catfish

Although not a high-end, expensive, or rare delicacy like fried fish, catfish, or snakehead fish, the catfish – a type of smooth-skinned fish found in most rivers in the province, especially the Lo and Da rivers – is always considered a delicious and easy-to-prepare dish with many cooking methods that leave a lasting impression on diners. It's always a highlight for those seeking to experience the riverine cuisine of the ancestral land. Many delicious dishes made from catfish include braised catfish, stewed catfish, catfish stew with tomatoes, grilled catfish, etc. In particular, the catfish cooked in a unique way, found only in the Lo River region, with its distinctive preparation and cooking style of the fishermen, offers a unique and unforgettable flavor for food connoisseurs.

There are only two types of river catfish: farmed and wild-caught by fishermen. Farmed catfish are abundant along the Lo River in Phu Ninh district; however, according to connoisseurs, farmed catfish are not as "quality" as wild-caught catfish, even though they may look bigger and more appealing. Connoisseurs can distinguish farmed catfish by their color, size, and flesh quality.

A common characteristic of snakehead fish meat is its yellow color; the darker the yellow color, the more likely the fish is wild or has been farmed for a long time. Batches of snakehead fish that are all the same size (about 3-4 fish per kilogram) are usually farmed, their skin is pale white, and they have a softer texture than wild fish.

The "vờ vờ" (or simply "vờ") is abundant in the Bạch Hạc River confluence area (Việt Trì City), the Hồng River, etc., and is only seen around the 2nd-3rd lunar months of each year. As a type of crustacean with a short life cycle, they only emerge in the early morning to molt and lay eggs before returning to their life cycle.

When the weather changes and there's a lot of fog, fishermen often catch mudskippers. They are caught with nets, and after being collected, they are sold to wholesalers or cleaned, vacuum-packed, and refrigerated for later use. When cooking, the mudskippers are thawed, cleaned again, and stir-fried with fermented rice water, tomatoes, scallions, and pork fat to enhance the aroma and flavor. After cooking, the mudskippers are kept separate from the snakehead fish to achieve the best taste.

At its peak, the price of sea cucumbers is around 250,000 VND/kg, and they are also very difficult to buy without knowing the right connections, as they are usually purchased by restaurants immediately after fishermen bring them ashore. In recent years, the sea cucumber hunting profession, which takes place around the 2nd and 3rd lunar months, has brought high income to fishermen who are willing to wake up early and work diligently...

Besides fermented rice paste, tomatoes, and pork fat—the main ingredients that enhance the flavor and color of the dish—vegetables are indispensable in snakehead fish stew. Hoa Nham fish restaurant, located at the beginning of Viet Tri bridge in Bach Hac ward, usually prepares snakehead fish stew by selecting high-quality perilla leaves, fresh onions with the white part, and Vietnamese coriander (Thương Hao)...cleaned and finely chopped for customers to season their dishes, creating a delicious, rich flavor and eliminating the fishy smell of fresh snakehead fish.

After being caught, the catfish are cleaned, the slime is removed, the fins are cut off, and they are sliced ​​into pieces depending on the size of the fish. Usually, 5-7 pieces per fish. After slicing, the fish are marinated with onions, garlic, fermented rice paste, fish sauce, salt, and chili... for about 15-20 minutes to absorb the flavors, and then placed separately on a large plate to be dipped in the broth when eaten.

These naturally caught river catfish fillets, always golden yellow like this, are marinated with spices and served in a broth flavored with fermented rice, sautéed tomatoes... a sweet and tangy broth with a natural spiciness that stimulates the taste buds and sense of smell of diners. The broth is placed on a gas or induction stove, brought to a boil, then the prepared fish is added to enhance the unforgettable and unique sweetness, creating a nutritious, rich, and flavorful dish with a unique way of eating, typical of the fishermen, making it irresistible to diners...

After the broth has boiled vigorously, diners add the prepared catfish fillets. Usually, the head and tail are added first to enhance the rich, sweet flavor. After about 3-5 minutes, diners can scoop up the catfish and tail, add some chopped herbs and spices, and pour in the hot broth to begin eating. The perfectly cooked fish will remain intact, not mushy; with just a gentle touch of chopsticks, the golden-brown pieces will separate from the bone, making it easy to eat and full of flavor. Catfish has no small bones, so the meat is plentiful, fatty, and incredibly flavorful... unforgettable.

The broth for the finished snakehead fish stew has a beautiful color and an unforgettable aroma for food lovers. Typically, a meal for 6 people will use about 1.5 kg of water spinach and 2-2.5 kg of snakehead fish, along with coriander, onions, and rice noodles... Raising a glass of homemade rice wine, in the cool weather, sitting and chatting about family, life, and business... a bowl of snakehead fish stew adds to the warm atmosphere of friends gathering and the enjoyment of the unique riverine cuisine of this ancestral land...

Priced at 250-300 thousand VND/kg, farmed or wild catfish are sold by restaurants or fishermen depending on the quality of the fish. However, when dining in a restaurant, catfish cooked with "vờ vờ" (a type of insect) will be more expensive, and not all diners know to order this dish. While not extremely rare, the unique combination of catfish and "vờ vờ" has given the cuisine of the ancestral land an unforgettable delicacy for tourists from near and far.

On a spring day, on the porch, raising a glass of strong wine and enjoying braised catfish with friends and family from near and far is also a relaxing occasion to savor delicious food and promote the unique culinary traditions of our ancestral land, such as rice cakes, sticky rice cakes, ear-shaped cakes, and fermented fish... To feel even more love and appreciation for our beloved homeland...

National Assembly

Source: https://baophutho.vn/kho-quen-ca-nganh-nau-vo-226367.htm