Khau Vai… if you love and miss me, come back!

When the winds of the changing seasons come together to warm up the wet patches of late spring rain, it is also the time when the rocks of the highlands seem to awaken with the footsteps of people returning to Khau Vai, to the "unique" market on the Dong Van stone plateau - Phong Luu Khau Vai Market.

"Darling, come down the mountain with me.

Remember to bring a horse and go alone.

I am not beautiful anymore

There is an umbrella to shade the romantic love market",...

Thinking back to those lyrics, I suddenly felt excited as if someone from the past was eagerly waiting... Then, after months of waiting, the market day was near.

Phong Luu Khau Vai Market (Meo Vac) - a gathering place for unfinished love affairs, old memories or unfulfilled but still precious promises.

Every year, from the afternoon of the 26th of the 3rd lunar month, when the sunset has just fallen from the mountain, from the trails like threads hanging from the mountain top to the hillside, groups of old and young people, men and women, flock down to the market. Their nimble steps cling to the sharp cat-ear rocks. Their laughter and chatter echo throughout the deep valley. The girls of Nung, Giay, Tay, Mong, Lo Lo,... in their most beautiful costumes are bustling to go to the market. In the wind, one can hear the sound of someone's flute leading, calling out to friends, blending with the mountains and forests as if to speed up people's steps... to Khau Vai.

The melodious and haunting sound of the Khen Ai calls out to you, blending with the mountains and forests, as if to quicken your steps… to Khau Vai.

The Khau Vai Phong Luu Market is held only once a year, on the 27th day of the third lunar month. The market is a cultural space, preserving the tearful love story, full of humanity between Ba (a Nung) and Ut (a Giay). Although they loved each other very much, because of family prohibition and ethnic customs, the two of them broke up with tears and made a vow: Even though they could not marry each other, every year, on the 27th day of the third lunar month, they would go to Khau Vai to sing to each other, telling each other the secrets they had kept in their hearts for a year. They confided and sang all night and then returned to their daily lives the next morning. On the last day of their lives, they came together and passed away on the 27th day of the third lunar month. The villagers mourned this difficult relationship, so they built a temple to worship Ong and Ba and made this day the market day for couples who had missed their chance.

Every year, from the afternoon of March 26 (lunar calendar), groups of old and young people, men and women flock to the market - to Phong Luu Khau Vai Market.

With the theme “Khau Vai Day of Return”, this year, the festival is organized by Ha Giang province at the provincial level in conjunction with a series of cultural and tourism activities to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the complete liberation of the South and national reunification (April 30, 1975 - April 30, 2025). The festival promises to bring many unique experiences and discoveries to visitors; the highlight is the art program “Khau Vai Day of Return” taking place at 8:00 p.m. on April 22 at the Central Square of Meo Vac district.

Phong Luu Khau Vai Market also attracts a large number of tourists to visit and experience every year.

In Khau Vai commune, there are special activities such as: Incense offering ceremony at Ong temple, Ba temple, love praying ceremony; competitions: Pole climbing contest to conquer love; love ball throwing; swallow playing; Mong flute performance; Lo Lo ethnic fire dance; sword dance; Giay ethnic drum dance; rice cake pounding; local cuisine and highland market space, night market... Currently, preparations are being urgently deployed by all levels and sectors, ready to welcome visitors to the festival.

Despite the cat-ear rocks, the high mountains and deep streams, they are excited, they are nervous... waiting for a romantic night of love, which only happens once a year. Coming to Khau Vai, the gathering place of unfinished love affairs, old memories or unfulfilled promises but still precious; to meet again, to confide and share about life...

Article and photos: Ha Linh (Meo Vac)

Source: http://hagiangtv.vn/doi-song-xa-hoi/202504/khau-vai-co-thuong-co-nho-thi-ve-5cc25e3/