Heritage from unique book collections

The series of reports Going to the Dao region (Lao Cai area only) explores the unique identities preserved by the Dao people through generations, from religious activities, the art of worship paintings, the world of shamans to specialized rituals that have now become unique cultural heritages, worthy of pride, preservation and promotion over time.

Shaman Chao To Quay in Seo Tong Sanh village, Tong Sanh commune, Bat Xat district, Lao Cai , slowly opened the refrigerator (not plugged in), filled with ancient books of the Dao people - national intangible cultural heritage - that he has kept for generations, then said: "There are many more, I lend them, I haven't taken them back yet".

Researcher Khuu Dinh (right) had his questions answered by shaman Chao To Quay during the 12-lamp ordination ceremony.

We were fortunate to accompany three researchers specializing in the Dao people from Hunan Normal University (China), including Professor Trieu Thu Phong, China's leading "Daoist" to learn about the dance and music of the Dao people in Lao Cai.

Professor Thu Phong shared the reason: "I have had the opportunity to conduct in-depth research on the Dao people in many countries around the world, and have also met and interacted with Dao Lao Cai shamans at an international conference on Dao songs and rituals held in Japan, but this is the first time I have come to Vietnam with two researchers, one on music and one on dance, because the Dao people here possess many valuable documents (ancient paintings, ancient books), antithetical lyrics, and dances that have never been encountered during research in other Dao communities around the world."

The Dao people and humility

The meal to welcome guests from afar was prepared by Ms. Chao Si May (Trieu Nhi Muoi), the wife of shaman Chao To Quay (Trieu Duc Quy), right in the family's hut in Seo Tong Sanh village. In the residential architecture of the Dao people, in addition to the main house - where the whole family lives, the Dao people often build an additional nearby structure, called a hut, used as a food warehouse, to store utensils, and also as a place to receive guests. It is called a hut because it is built spaciously and firmly right in front of the road connecting Noi Bai - Lao Cai highway to Sa Pa.

If you have ever approached the Dao community, you will surely remember the feeling of the first meeting, which is shyness, timidity, and always having a distance. Ms. Duong Thanh, an independent researcher on the Vietnamese Dao people, a member of the World Dao Ethnic Research Association, Kanagawa University, Japan, with more than 20 years of experience, explained: "The Dao people are like that, in the initial meeting they are very reserved, moderate, and often hide themselves, especially modest. I have had many opportunities to work and contact with high-level shamans who are respected and trusted by the Dao community, not only in the country, but also in China when there is a matter, they invite them to perform ceremonies, but when asked, they never admit that they are good, do not consider themselves in any position or rank, always praise others and when talking about themselves, they gently say that everything they do is taught by books, only based on books".

The book of the shaman Chao To Quay in the fridge

Dao researchers from China are fascinated by the precious documents of the Dao people in Lao Cai.

A Dao ethnic research team from China conducted fieldwork in Bat Xat district, Lao Cai.

Ancient book warehouse

Talking about books, Mr. Quay left his unfinished meal, took the whole group to the refrigerator in the corner of the house, opened it and saw that it was full of books. At first glance at that unique "warehouse", everyone laughed, but then realized that in the land of fog that appears and disappears day and night, penetrating into the house, the unplugged refrigerator is the optimal space for the Dao shaman to store "secrets" passed down through generations, from books on worshiping, books on choosing dates and times, books on being human, holding funerals, books on singing duets, love songs, books on establishing a peaceful life...

In the life of the Dao people, the shaman is an important figure; and for the shaman, the book collection is especially important because as long as there are books, there is culture, identity, and the teachings of the ancestors remain intact. The shaman manages the book collection, both to continue practicing reading and learning, and to understand more about the teachings of the ancestors. And the shaman also uses that book collection to teach the children of the Dao people, so that when they grow up they will know how to read and write, and when they are adults they will know how to act according to the teachings of the ancients, and even more so, to apply the books they have said to life, from funeral rituals, weddings, antiphonal singing, dance, music, building houses, plowing fields, lighting lamps, offering thanks..., all are fully recorded in the books.

In addition to Professor Thu Phong, the research team also included Ly Chinh Hang - a Dao music research expert, and Khuu Dinh - a Dao dance research expert. When the three asked, Mr. Quay answered, then took the right book, opened the right page, read or sang for the whole group to save the documents in audio and video recordings. The way the whole group worked was so drunk that they forgot to eat, diligently taking notes, photocopying documents in a joyful mood. After chatting further, we learned that all three researchers in China were among the very few who chose the narrow field of research on Dao music and dance. Female expert Khuu Dinh shared: "We got a lot of new information when looking at Mr. Quay's books. This source of documents is very valuable, helping us to compare and systematize Dao documents to make them more complete."

Nom Dao script in Lao Cai has been a national intangible cultural heritage since 2015.

Researcher Duong Thanh, also a resident of Sa Pa, added: "The Dao people value books very much, they rely on books for everything they do in life. The Dao branch in Sa Pa is also a large branch, for example, the Chao family of the global Dao people has the eldest brother in Sa Pa, the Ly family has the second brother in Sa Pa. Therefore, all the customs, rituals, and offerings... of the Dao people here are still almost completely original."

The intimate meal of the Dao people in the mountainous region at the first meeting was like a lucky start for us, because from there, it opened up a very unique world in the cultural life, spirituality, and identity of the Dao people for us to get close to and explore. ( to be continued)

Source: https://thanhnien.vn/di-ve-mien-dao-di-san-tu-nhung-kho-sach-doc-dao-185240311173248104.htm