Grilled herring, a rustic delicacy

The period from February to March of the lunar calendar every year is the season when fishermen in the coastal areas sail their boats out to sea to catch herring. And, in the memories of coastal people, charcoal-grilled herring is rustic but irresistibly delicious, no matter where they go, they always remember it as a familiar feeling.

Ms. Nguyen Thi Man (left) grills herring to sell to customers - Photo: TRAN TUYEN

Fishermen in Trung Giang coastal commune, Gio Linh district often cast nets to catch herring in the sea near the shore, a few nautical miles from shore. On days with favorable weather and a good harvest, each boat can make 2-3 trips to sea per day, bringing in several hundred kilograms of herring and selling them for several million VND. Although herring has high nutritional content and is rich in protein, it has many bones, and its selling price at the beach ranges from 10,000 to 15,000 VND/kg.

For our generation, charcoal-grilled herring is a delicacy associated with our difficult childhoods. As children, every afternoon, we would sit together on the sand waiting for our family boat to return. As soon as the boat docked, the adults would join hands to remove the fish from the net. The children would quickly pick up the big fish and bring them to the water's edge to wash off the sand.

Next, choose casuarina branches of moderate size and stick them into the fish body. The herring skewers are grilled over a charcoal fire that has been lit in advance. The casuarina wood burns brightly, the charcoal is red hot. After about 10 - 15 minutes, when the white-green scales of the herring turn golden brown, the fish is just cooked.

Using your hands to peel the fish, the fragrant aroma rises up. Grilled herring meat is very sweet, chewy, and soft enough. It will be perfect when grilled herring is dipped in crushed salt, fresh chili, and green pepper. Many people who enjoy this rustic dish for the first time have to exclaim "irresistibly delicious!".

Many years ago, when the herrings were caught and brought to shore, the women would light charcoal, set up grills to grill the fish, and then take them to the market to sell. Ms. Nguyen Thi Man in Ha Loi Trung village, Trung Giang commune was the same. However, for about 5 years now, she has been buying herrings from boat owners in the village and then setting up her tools and sitting on the side of the coastal road. She grills and sells the fish to passersby. After many years, Ms. Man has a list of "regular customers".

Anyone who comes to buy and eat grilled herring at Mrs. Man's "counter" (called a counter for show, but in fact it is just a temporary tent covered with a few thin tarps) must squat or sit on a small plastic chair. Blowing, eating, and sniffing at the same time. But it is very enjoyable! Next to her, Mrs. Man regularly waves a bamboo fan, while using her other hand to pick up chopsticks to turn the fish on the grill, serving customers. She is also a gifted storyteller. Whether the customer is a stranger or an acquaintance, she tells stories about fishing, fish trading, and the lives of fishermen here...

Not long ago, a few foreign tourists passing through Ha Loi Trung village on the coastal road stopped to squat and enjoy Mrs. Man's grilled herring. Despite the language barrier, through body gestures, both the host and the guests understood each other and happily enjoyed the interesting atmosphere.

The other day, I went back to my hometown on the weekend. The sun had not yet passed the top of the casuarina tree but Mrs. Man was already grilling fish in her familiar corner. Walking a few dozen meters to Mrs. Man's "counter", I ordered a plate of grilled herring and leisurely enjoyed each piece of fish that gradually melted in my mouth. Still enjoying the sweet, fragrant, chewy taste of the fish, the salty taste of the salt and the spicy taste of fresh chili and green pepper.

When asked about the sale, Mrs. Man honestly said: “A few years ago, I was the first person to sell fish on this roadside, so many customers stopped to buy. Now, along this road, many people sit and sell like me, so the number of customers has decreased. But my “regular customers” still come to me. There are even regular customers who live dozens of kilometers away who still stop to buy fish for me when they come here to swim in the sea. Selling slowly every day also brings in extra income to cover their living expenses.”

Indeed! In recent years, instead of bringing fish to the district market or markets inside and outside the commune to sell seafood, women in the coastal area have been selling seafood products along the coastal road connecting Cua Tung - Cua Viet. Every day, hundreds of vehicles pass by, so they can sell a little bit, have an additional source of income, and save on the effort and cost of transporting shrimp and fish far away. The seafood sold here is always fresh and delicious, so it is trusted and favored by customers. Another factor that is equally important to retain customers is the honest and simple nature of these women.

Tran Tuyen

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