Lesson 1: The Ao Dai - A Source of Vietnamese Cultural Pride

For generations, the Ao Dai has always been considered the traditional attire of Vietnamese women. The Ao Dai has become a beautiful aspect of Vietnamese culture, an embodiment of the nation, and a symbol of the beauty of Vietnamese women.

The image of the traditional Vietnamese four-panel and five-panel dresses with embroidered bodices and crow's beak-shaped headscarves (the predecessors of today's Ao Dai) has been frequently mentioned in folk songs and ballads since ancient times. It has also been an endless source of inspiration for the works of artists, writers, and journalists. But more than just a traditional garment, the Ao Dai is also a special image in cultural diplomacy , connecting Vietnam and the world. "How beautiful, my homeland gives me this magical dress. Wherever I am... Paris, London, or in distant lands , I catch a glimpse of the Ao Dai fluttering in the streets, and I see the soul of my homeland there… my dear!" These lines from the song "A Glimpse of Homeland" by composers Tu Huy and Thanh Tung show the pride in the presence of the Vietnamese Ao Dai in many places around the world . Today, the Ao Dai is not only for Vietnamese women, but many foreigners (especially the wives of diplomats, etc.) also choose to wear it as a sign of respect for Vietnamese culture. The ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) is not only seen within Vietnam but also across continents, and at major international events. The ao dai has truly become a source of pride, representing Vietnam and its people to the international community.

The ao dai is a legacy from traditional foundations.

According to Associate Professor Pham Van Duong, Deputy Director of the Institute of Cultural Studies, Vietnam Academy of Social Sciences , the Ao Dai is not the creation of one person at a particular time, but rather the inheritance of thousands of years of traditional culture. In other words, the Ao Dai is a creation built upon an existing foundation, and the popular Ao Dai today is the result of many innovations.

Associate Professor Pham Van Duong stated: “The ao dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) originated from the four-panel dress worn by Vietnamese women during the feudal era and has been modernized many times. In the early 20th century, artist Lemur (Nguyen Cat Tuong) modernized the four-panel and five-panel dresses to create the ao dai that is closer to the one we see today. From the four-panel and five-panel dresses, artist Cat Tuong added modern elements of Western clothing, such as cinching the waist to accentuate the curves of the female body, and incorporating elements of Western dresses such as ruffled sleeves and modernized necklines… to highlight the graceful and alluring features of women.” In the 1960s, artist Le Pho of the Indochina School of Arts introduced a design closer to the traditional style. The neckline of the ao dai was designed to be more modest, not overly revealing, but still retaining the soft curves of the female body. Many women prefer the ao dai designs by artist Le Pho because Vietnamese women, especially those in the North, still appreciate modesty and subtlety.

According to Associate Professor Pham Van Duong, the Ao Dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) has become popular since the 1970s. Previously, only a certain segment of the population, such as urban intellectuals, wore it. However, it has since become widespread among all segments of the population, from the plains and rural areas to the cities. While the Ao Dai was previously worn only on important occasions like weddings and festivals, today it is worn at all events. "For the Vietnamese people, the Ao Dai has become a beautiful aspect of Vietnamese culture; it is an indispensable garment for important national and ethnic events," said Associate Professor Pham Van Duong.

Preserving the unique identity of the nation through the image of the Ao Dai.

Associate Professor Pham Van Duong stated: “First and foremost, we must affirm that identity is the unique characteristic that distinguishes different ethnic groups, communities, or nations from one another. Around the world, every ethnic group, every nation, every community has its own unique characteristics. These characteristics are not only reflected in material values ​​such as architecture, houses, and household items, but also in spiritual values ​​and aesthetic taste. In our country, the Ao Dai is the attire that Vietnamese women always choose to wear during important events in their lives. Therefore, the Ao Dai has become a unique feature, an identity, and is not blended or diluted in the context of international exchange and integration. This unique characteristic helps the international community easily recognize the beauty, grace, and distinct aesthetic taste of Vietnamese women. That is what we call identity.”

Throughout history, the Vietnamese Ao Dai has undergone transformations in style and material, from modern to unconventional. It has even been adapted into wedding dresses and modernized versions. However, regardless of the style, the traditional Ao Dai of Vietnamese women retains its graceful, sensual, and modest charm, a quality unmatched by any other garment. The Ao Dai has become a distinctive symbol of Vietnamese women and is recognized worldwide.

“On the glamorous streets of New York or Paris, when you see a girl wearing an ao dai, she is already showcasing the unique beauty of her country and her people. And for those who admire that image, they know that this is a Vietnamese woman; their minds recognize that the outfit belongs to Vietnamese culture,” emphasized Associate Professor Pham Van Duong. However, it would be a mistake to talk about the Vietnamese ao dai without mentioning the ao dai for men. Unlike women, men usually only wear the traditional ao dai on special occasions such as Tet (Lunar New Year), weddings, or traditional cultural events. Although not as commonly chosen as for women, men wearing the traditional ao dai contributes to the preservation and promotion of the unique identity of the nation's culture through the image of the ao dai.

A symbol of "cultural self-defense" against integration trends.

At the First National Cultural Conference in 1946, President Ho Chi Minh emphasized the guiding and leading role of culture in the development of the country and nation through the affirmation: "Culture must illuminate the path for the people to follow." Building on that spirit, the Party and State of Vietnam have always considered cultural diplomacy a crucial pillar in foreign affairs.

In 2021, the Prime Minister issued the Strategy for Cultural Diplomacy until 2030, defining cultural diplomacy through cultural tools in diplomacy to contribute to promoting the image of Vietnam, its culture and people, honoring the intellect, qualities, character, and noble ideals of the Vietnamese people, and elevating the value of Vietnamese culture; absorbing the essence of human culture, thereby arousing aspirations for national development, strengthening soft power, and enhancing the country's position. Accordingly, culture must not only be placed on par with economics, politics, and society, but must also be built and developed – creating endogenous strength for sustainable development.

At the National Cultural Conference implementing the Resolution of the 13th National Congress of the Party, General Secretary Nguyen Phu Trong affirmed: "Culture is the identity of a nation; as long as culture exists, the nation exists; when culture is lost, the nation is lost." As the General Secretary said, each nation has its own unique values, and many values ​​become a system of values. A nation with many systems of values ​​is a nation with a distinctive and rich culture. To ensure these unique values ​​become an "identity," they must not be confused with other cultures.

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According to Associate Professor Pham Van Duong, unique identity also becomes a nation's "cultural self-defense capability" against trends of integration and assimilation. This has been clearly demonstrated when Vietnam endured thousands of years of Western domination and even periods of cultural "assimilation" and "coercion," yet still maintained its unique cultural identity. This unique identity and values, shaped and built over thousands of years of history, have given the Vietnamese people the "ability to defend themselves" culturally. Therefore, in the face of many historical upheavals, the Vietnamese people have maintained a culture with its own distinct characteristics, remaining unassimilated and undiminished over time.

"As General Secretary Nguyen Phu Trong said, a nation that preserves its culture can never lose or perish, except for those nations without culture. Therefore, culture is an extremely important identity for the independence of a country and a nation. When people recognize their own unique values, they will consciously preserve their culture and their nation. A nation that does not recognize its own values, does not know where it is or which culture it belongs to, will find it difficult to survive in the rapidly evolving trend of integration," said Associate Professor Pham Van Duong. Speaking about the value of the Ao Dai, Associate Professor Bui Hoai Son - Director of the Vietnam National Institute of Culture and Arts - emphasized at the seminar: "Vietnamese Ao Dai: Identification, Customs, Values ​​and Identity" (June 26, 2020): The Vietnamese Ao Dai is not simply a type of national costume; it also embodies a rich history, cultural traditions, philosophical values, aesthetic artistic concepts, and the national consciousness and spirit of the Vietnamese people. Through many historical ups and downs, the Ao Dai has increasingly affirmed itself as the representative garment of Vietnam, of the Vietnamese people, created and modernized by the Vietnamese to suit the needs of modern society. The Ao Dai is now not only a symbol of the image of Vietnamese women, but also represents Vietnamese culture and national identity to the world. Through various stages of development with modifications, innovations, and the increasingly diverse use of materials, designs, colors, and patterns, the Vietnamese ao dai is demonstrating remarkable vitality. The ao dai has overcome many challenges to both preserve its beautiful traditional values, honor women, and aspire to become a symbol of modern Vietnamese culture, contributing to promoting the image of Vietnam to the world.

From a designer's perspective, Minh Hanh believes that culture remains fundamental in the context of current integration and globalization. And the Ao Dai (Vietnamese traditional dress) is one of the objects with enough "power" to convey contemporary messages from Vietnam to the world. "To this day, the Ao Dai has become a source of pride and an irreplaceable representative of Vietnamese identity. It has imprinted contemporary values ​​through messages that spread positivity to life," designer Minh Hanh affirmed. According to Minh Hanh, the Ao Dai is a heritage of Vietnam, and as a heritage, its inherent strength is immense. She believes that the Ao Dai is also an ambassador carrying messages about the positive movement of life, about aspirations for achievement in the era of globalization. It can be said that the Vietnamese Ao Dai has built its own "brand" and left a deep impression whenever international friends talk about Vietnam and its people. This brand has been and continues to be affirmed, spread, and inspired by every Vietnamese citizen, as well as foreigners who love Vietnam, in cultural, social, political , and international diplomatic events, etc. / *This article uses some archival photos, collected photos, and photos from colleagues. News Reporting Team

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